If the spark can jump the plug gap, it certainly can jump the gap between the cap & rotor. If either is so badly worn that the spark is going someplace else, usual procedure is to replace them. But to be honest I've never needed to replace any of my brass insert sets. They last *MUCH* longer than the aluminum ones. Even the set on my Brown truck, which has 45,000 miles since its original servicing, still looks good. As I said in the other post, areas where the rotor sweeps past are stained green, but they aren't pitted and eaten away the way aluminum gets. Ignition module never sees high voltage -- only grounds whatever the input is. 10+ volts is standard for Ford Duraspark. I figure if Bosch can't handle that I'll simply throw a Durspark on my DeLorean. The Pertronix module I converted my 1969 Lincoln engine with (fits inside the distributor, exactly where the points used to be -- are you paying attention Rick Gendreau?) recommended full 12+ volts. Pertronix does advise spiral wound wires for its coils. My 7mm Bosch set is spiral wound, so perhaps they can withstand high voltage ignition. (I did run one of those until my Hervey set showed up). Have no idea what the internal constitution of Hervey's wires is, but if MSD is willing to use them for its Blaster coil, I'm sure they're up to Pertronix. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > > > What you are observing is the "Weakest Link Syndome". The stock > ignition system is not made for this large increase in voltage. Even > with the better wires you are not upgrading the cap and rotor. By > inceasing the gap on the spark plugs you increase the insulation > breakdown requirements of the entire system. Some of the parts are not > up to it. You cannot change the gap inside the distributer between the > cap and the rotor. You also cannot keep the rotor from breaking down > and grounding on the distributer shaft. You are also increasing the > current requirements on the ignition ECU. You may get a hotter spark > but how long will ALL of the components live? BTW increasing the gap > has the side effect of delaying the spark so you might want to advance > the timing to compensate. Again, you cannot just change some parts > without considering ALL of the effects on the entire system. I agree > with you that the stock ignition system can be improved but you MUST > do it on a systemwide basis. Just replacing some of the parts is not > enough. You MUST consider reliability, how long will your improvements > last and is it worth it compared to "stock"? > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 > > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty@xxxx> wrote: > > > > > > Bill, > > > > Rich A. and I also thought you could use a bigger plug gap with the > > hotter coils, so I (using an MSD blaster2) gapped mine to 0.031 or so > > , where the manual says the upper limit is 0.28 normally. I believe > > Rich A. also gapped his similarly. The result was that my car > > couldn't rev much over 3500 under load. Rich had better luck, but > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/