I usually "bench" bleed after the master cylinder is installed in the vehicle: run two rubber hoses from the output ports back into the reservior and activate the pedal until no air bubbles pass through. Replacement master cylinders often come with disposable plastic barbs to attach the hoses, but for a dollar or two you can buy honest to goodness brass ones. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "eremhcel" <dmcfive0@xxxx> wrote: > > > I need to replace my master cylinder. I have the nuts removed that hold > it to the brake booster and the lines removed but it won't break free > from the booster. Could I get a thin putty knife and try to separate it > or is there something else holding it on there? After reading Steve's > posts about the brake parts he replaced and the responses he got about > bleeding, I thought I could just replace it and hook up the lines and > then bleed them. But I saw some posts about bench bleeding the master > cylinder. How do I do that? Thanks for any help. > Mike > 5623 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/