Gently rap on the Master Cylinder on both top and bottom, until it comes free. Taping it with a 3lb. sledge works wonders. Bench bleeding is getting all the air out of the M/C itself, and filling it with brake fluid. And you only need to do this, if the M/C wasn't already bleed for you. Check with your vendor whom you purchased it from, to see if it was, prior to being shipped out to you. -Robert vin 6585 "X" --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "eremhcel" <dmcfive0@xxxx> wrote: > > > I need to replace my master cylinder. I have the nuts removed that hold > it to the brake booster and the lines removed but it won't break free > from the booster. Could I get a thin putty knife and try to separate it > or is there something else holding it on there? After reading Steve's > posts about the brake parts he replaced and the responses he got about > bleeding, I thought I could just replace it and hook up the lines and > then bleed them. But I saw some posts about bench bleeding the master > cylinder. How do I do that? Thanks for any help. > Mike > 5623 To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/