In the interim Woody could idle his engine manually. I know this is not a popular option in the DeLorean community, but it's a perfectly valid use of the brass screws already in place. FWIW: A/C compressor load doesn't seem to be an issue -- never needed the aux air valve for it when I ran my K Jetronic manually, and I've never added an A/C solenoid to my current carb. Warm up is the only difficult time. Throttle plates/deceleration valves will of course need to close properly (unless he decides to idle his engine by cracking them in lieu of brass screws). Don't think vacuum leaks are Woody's problem. Usually those cause decreased or erratic idle speed from unmetered air, unless mixture is cranked way up to compensate (which then kills fuel economy on the road). Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > > > It is also possible the black box that runs the idle motor (the idle > computer aka idle ECU) is bad. It does fail (not often) and will leave > the idle stuck in a high speed. You cannot blame the idle motor, it is > only doing what the idle ECU is commanding. The "best" way to > determine is to temporaraly substitute a known, good, idle ECU with a > known, good idle motor. > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/