Hi Tony! Nice to hear from you. Before you sand: Thinking back to my days at DMC when our transport guys were schlepping your Proto all over the country, three things come to mind. First of all, the wheel and grit used in production and in the dealerships was not finalized until just before production, and long after Proto 1 got the treatment. I just remember we kept seeing paperwork related to all these exotic grinding gizmos. It became quite the issue. (Hey, list, jump in on this one if you have some history here. Never thought to write all this down...) Second, regraining the car actually produces a slightly different grain than factory, and you can easily see it in an A/B comparison with a pristine vehicle if you know what it looks like. A side-by- side comparison may give you some clues as to how the Proto was done. Third, and I may be preaching to the choir, but regraining has a few less-than-obvious caveats. So, what do we do? Call the DMC road show guys, if anybody knows them. Failing that, I would suggest a few things: Research: start with an A/B/C comparison. Look at the skin as you would a choice piece of mahogony. If you have access to an untouched original (Don Steger has a pretty good one for this.) and one that has been done by hand with a pad, and the Proto of course, look closely at their finishes. On the factory original, there is actually quite a bit of smooth SS between the individual channels where the grit on the original wheel cut, and the overall brightness/reflectivity has a very distinctive character to it. Also, you can clearly see the entry and exit points of each grain of grit, and in fact they make an attractive pattern, like layered blonde hair, that quickly identifies an original finish. Dense graining and an overrun set of entry patterns is a sign of refinishing with a wheel. Sometimes this was done at QAC. (Do we have any QAC alums on this list?) The luminosity is noticeably different at a distance. Now look at the hand-rubbed car. Very dense grain, and no entry points. Depending on the grit of the blending pad (I use 3M wood finishing pads with fairly agressive grit for extra shine.) the abrasion begins to create grain in the original clear areas between the factory channels; it's much more dense. Compared to a factory car, the rubbed car is brighter and looks "sunnier" in subdued light. The factory finish, on the other hand, has a much softer, delicate sheen, an almost satin quality IMO. (I bought my car with roof scratches, and had no choice but to refinish. I miss my original finish to say the least.) Why all this looking? You may be able to gain clues as to how the Proto was grained, and how the road crew maintained the finish. It wasn't a secret, but they were so steeped in incredible detail when they dressed this thing up, nobody really knew how they did it. Besides, you couldn't really ask them because they were always on the road! Okay, so now you've determined how the finish came to be on your Proto as it sits in your garage. Now for the part where I may be preaching to the choir. (Press Fast Forward at your convenience.) Please don't rub the car down in little sections. In broad daylight, you won't notice the difference. But at twilight, in fog, in a partially lit garage, those patches will show up like darned socks. (How many know what "darn" means here? Am I that stinkin' old?) I have spent hours on mine and several other peoples cars getting rid of those nasty square patches. It takes forever. (Okay, you can hit "Play" again.) I can tell you this much--that finish was flawless like jewelry when you saw it. Stop you dead in your tracks. It's good to know someone is taking so much time with this wonderful piece of history. Imagine, being twenty-something, seeing that thing in the flesh when all the world knew was vinyl hardtops and spoke wheelcovers... Cya, list! --Ray 10693 and Remembering --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "dmcproto1" <DMCPROTO1@xxxx> wrote: > > > Before the restoration of Proto 1 starts I would like to find an original DMC > dealer flap sander. I was told that it is an air tool that all the dealers had. If > anyone knows of one I could buy it would help out a great deal. > > Thanks, > Tony To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/