Re: [DML] Re: Piston rings + sleeves

[Nathan Robinson <nathanrobinson@xxxxxxxxx>]

As for parts, try Ken Garff, Volvo dept in Utah. (I don't have their
phone # off hand.) The D has the same engine (with slight
modifications) as production '80 - '82 Volvo 260's (the B28F engine -
2.8L, the B280 was '86-93ish - 2.8L, and the B27F was late 70's -
2.7L). Their prices are good. I got cams, chains, rockers, valves, and
rods (IIRC) for around $480. Granted, Volvo had to REMANUFACTURE
another RHS cam for me, as no dealer I could find had any. You should
be able to get cylinder sleeves pretty cheap from them.

Nathan Robinson
No D, but I do have a Volvo 260, with the PRV-6.

If you do get new stuff, make sure to get new cam chain
tensioners/oilers (Larger oil openings). The early B28F had problems
with that area that was later fixed in the B280. Also, if you plan on
having the engine a long time, it might be worth it to cut holes in
the chain covers over the cam tensioners and install aluminum covers
so you can easily check the tensioners without having to completely
take the cover off.

As for idling problems, check the idle circuit and injector. It might
be gummed up. You also might want to check into Volvo's engine service
manual for the B28F engine.


Note: I am spankin' new to this list, however, my dad and I spent the
last two years restoring a '80 Volvo 264 GLE. We now know more about
that damn engine than either one of us want to.




On Sat, 8 Jan 2005 20:58:14 -0500, DMC Joe <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> I agree with David. My PRV-6 approached 300k before retirement. My Volvo
> PRV-280 is now approaching 200k and still runs like new with full
> compression and virtually no oil consumption.
> 
> DMC Joe  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 5:43 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: Piston rings + sleeves
> 
> Before you tear the engine all apart you should do a compression test, a
> leak-down test, check the oil pressure with an accurate gauge, and note the
> oil consumption (if any). The PRV is a sturdy little engine, unless it is an
> extreme high-mileger, a top job is probably all you should need. Doing the
> heads should get you back to like-new status.
> Even if it gets overheated (unless you cooked it so bad the oil burnt) you
> should not have to go into the block. This assumes the oil was changed at
> least once in a while with the filter and there are no loud, knocking
> noises.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> -- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxx> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hey guys- does anyone know where I can just get some cylinder sleeves
> > without having to buy pistons with them as well? How bout a better
> > source for rings (351.24 from DMCH is rediculous I get rings for a V12
> > diablo for less!). My move to CA is approaching and want to rebuild
> > the motor before I take on the 3000 mile journey. Eventually I will be
> >
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
>





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