The other weak link is the headlight master switch itself. It is not fuse protected (fuses 14 and 15 come AFTER the switch), yet it contains a load device (the internal bulb). This bulb is doubly troubling: -Heat from it can slowly melt the switch internals -If that happens, an unprotected short can set the car on fire This happened to me -- see the pic in #5939's photo album. It is very troubling to see fire under the plastic dash of one's plastic car. Note also that full side and tail light amperage passes through the master switch (only high and low beams are on relays). I do not know how much additional stress these lights put on the switch, but they can't be healthy given its rather cheap construction. My entire external light circuit has since been redesigned, including addition of a relay for side and tail lights (load through the switch now is 30 milliamps). For additional security internal bulbs for it and the hazard switch are removed, relying instead on halos of light around them from the A/C panel bulbs. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Video Bob" <videobob@xxxx> wrote: > The previous owner of my car had installed the high output Xenon lights. > They look like many other modern lights. > They are bright white. > One night, I pressed the headlight button and my headlights would not come > on? > I checked my fuses... > To my surprise the headlight fuse had melted into a mush. > These new lights were much more powerfull the older lights. > > I would suggest replacing your entire fuse block reguardless of what > upgrades you make. > It is just a poor design made with thin metal parts and WILL eventually melt > down. > Might as well nip in the bud before your car burns down to the ground. > > I haven't done it yet, but I am working on it. > I suppose I will simply go a to a good car-auto-electrics place any a pro to > do it. > -VB