AW: [DML] idle revisited
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AW: [DML] idle revisited




Loui, I bet it's still the idle micro-switch that isn't pushed
all the way down. Test it while motor running at higher idle
simply bi pushing the switch with a small screw driver.
If it still doesn't work - test if the switch has a temperature
problem.
I sometimes have the same problem with idle at 1500rpm. Simply by
pushing the gas and releasing the pedal fast will solve it while
in traffic. I solved in by setting the srecws properly. The screw
for the switch has to push the switch 1-2mm before the other screw
stops it from moving any further.
Is there any gap in the throttle cable and linkage ? There must be one !
Is everything lubed ? NOT with WD40, that doesn't last.



By the way - why do you think your O2 sensor is faulty ?
When cold this thing doesn't even work ! It starts working
at about 500 to 600°C ! So this shouldn't do anything to your idle
at all. Only if a temperature sensor is defect and telling the
ECU it's already hot enough to use the O2 Sensor, then there may
be such an effect. But then still the O2 sensor is not defect but a
temperature sensor....

Try to play with those two little screws first, I can't imagine that
there is any vacuum leak that reacts so hard on rising temperature.

Elvis




Hey group,

I've done some more fiddling around with my car's idle... trying to figure
out what the deal is. Initially I thought the cable was somehow not getting
enough tension to return the throttle arm to the microswitch, but it looks
like that is no longer the issue. The throttle can return the arm to close
the microswitch, but the microswitch doesn't make the car idle down every
time like it should. I've lubricated the ever living mess out of every
visable part of the throttle linkage from front to back on the car for
reference. When the car is cold, it idles perfectly (well, as perfectly as a
PRV CAN idle...), but as the car warms up, something suddenly happens and
the car's idle jumps to 1500 and stays. I've watched it in the driveway as
this happens, so since the throttle arm isn't moving, this tells me it's
something in the automatic idle system. Several months ago I could blip the
throttle, and the car would *sometimes* idle down to where it should, but
this is no longer the case. The idle is getting progressively higher. After
being driven, it now wants to idle at about 2000 rpms.

Over the last few days I've played around with some things. First I just
unplugged the idle speed motor to see what happens. The idle will drop about
200 rpms sometimes, but will jump up other times when I try this, but when I
plug it back in the car idles down to 800 rpms. So for an experiment, I
tried switching out the idle speed motor with one from my old DeLorean. This
changed nothing with the idle situation. So let me see if I understand how
the idle system works- the idle speed motor is electronically controlled by
the idle speed ECU. The idle speed motor controls the throttle plates by
vacuum. For reference, I also put on a new CPR over the weekend, and I also
know the O2 sensor is bad because the car hunts when it is very very cold.
So I've deduced that my idle speed ECU is the problem after all of this. Am
I correct? Is there any further ways to test it? I really don't want to
chunk down that kind of money if I don't have to, but the idle situation is
getting so annoying that I don't want to drive it any more. I would be
grateful for any additional viewpoints or suggestions. Thanks!

Louie Golden
VIN 5252
NC plates "88 MPH"

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