RE: [DML] What engine oil should I use?

["Video Bob" <videobob@xxxx>]

I just had this long discussion with John Hervey at SpecialTauto tonight....
We were discussing the "best" oil filters, etc, (which may be revealed in 
another post)
but we both came to the conclusion that you should use what is recommended 
in the manual
which is 20/50.
The lower grades are for very low climates, and last I checked Alabama does 
not keep an
average temperature of 14F and below, which is the temperature you would use 
a 10W grade in.

My oil experiences come from owning Harley Davidson's, which have air, or 
technically OIL
cooled engines. They use 20/50.
Because the PRV engine runs hot, and the aluminum can quickly dissipate the 
heat it requires a thicker viscosity oil to maintain good lubrication.
The lower grades turn into a thin layer of water.
This can lower compression and cause the engine to run hotter because of the 
extra friction.
The thicker oil creates a better seal between the piston rings and the 
cylinder walls, and coats
better and can take the high RPM's.

The brand is your choice, I have always preferred Pennzoil or Valveoline 
myself.
Usually, 20/50 is used in racing or motorcycle engines, and is classified as 
either
heavy duty, racing or motorcycle oil.
You could use the motorcycle blend, or another version that is called:

GT PERFORMANCE 20W-50 MOTOR OIL
You can read about this type of oil here:
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/EngineOils/pdf/GTPerformance20W50.PDF

You could also try:
PENNZOIL HD MOTOR OIL
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/DomesticMarketing/EngineOils/pdf/HD.pdf

I don't know off hand if there is a 20/50 synthetic other than Harley 
Davidson's SYN-3 oil,
which is what I put in my bike, but it is $8.00 per quart.
In a Delorean it would cost you about $70.00 in oil, so it may not be 
practical for you.

I know that Valveoline makes a full Synthetic, and I think they make it in 
20/50 but I
have not seen it for myself yet, I will check into that.

Keep in mind, synthetic is a change that you need to keep.
Either do it or don't but don't flip flop back and forth.
You need to stick with it once you make the change.

If your car has that many miles, you might want to try a little "Engine 
Restorer".
They sell this at any Wal-Mart and it comes in a silver can.
It is a little expensive, but I use it in all of my cars and it makes a big 
difference.
It is designed to fill in all the little scratches in the cylinder walls and 
increase the compression.
I always put in a can of this, along with some Slick-50, and some "Marvel 
Mystery Oil" in both
the oil and gas.
I do this in all of my cars and they are all in top shape.

I change my oil every 2500 or so.
You want to change your oil BEFORE it turns black.
If it turns black, it has broken down and failed already.
The black you are seeing is burnt carbon in the oil.
It's cooked.
As soon as you see the oil turning brown and getting stinky I change it.
Same goes with all fluids.
Preventative maintenance is the key to a long running engine.

Of course, these are just examples and suggestions.
Everyone will have a different view point on this subject I am sure.
Good luck.

- Videobob
VIN#5278


> From: casey barlow <dmc1288mph@xxxx>>
> Hi List, I drive my Delorean almost every day, and I
> wanted to know what is the best weight of engine oil
> to use. Iam running 20W-50 Castrol right now, should I
> run a 10W-40,10W-30 or is the 20W-50 alright? I live
> in lower Alabama and my car has about 150,000 miles
> and is still running strong.Iam not sure what the
> owner before me ran in the car. I am also running a
> lucas oil additive. Thanks, Casey VIN# 3270

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