RE: [DML] idle yet again
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

RE: [DML] idle yet again



Kevin, The best thing to do is get back to the correct settings.
#1. Make sure the vacuum solenoid switch is plugged in good and working.
#2. Make sure all the vacuum hoses going to it and from it are connected
good.
#3. Make sure the tube coming off the idle speed motor going to the bottom
of the air flow meter is sealed as good as possible. If it leaks you can't
adjust the idle correct. Also look for any other hoses that my be broken,
cracked or torn.
#4. The top screw on the throttle body lever ( must ) en-gauge and turn on
the idle speed motor about 30 thousands or so before the bottom screw hits
the striker plate.
When this happens it turns on the idle motor and turns on the vacuum
solenoid shutting off the vacuum going to the ignition distributor. If the
switch isn't working or not turning on, then you will have vacuum going to
the distributor all the time and resulting in higher idle. It's advancing
the timing.
#4. Once you get this done and the cable is not binding holding the throttle
lever open more than you want, then adjust the bottom ( counter clock ) till
the desirable idle is achieved. You will also have to adjust the top as
well. If you back off the bottom screw and you still have a high idle, then
make sure the top screw isn't holding the throttle open. That's why you have
to work back and fourth. If the above fails and your still having the high
idle, then the idle speed thermistor, ECU or Idle speed motor may be bad or
need to be replaced.
John Hervey



-----Original Message-----
From: K. Creason [mailto:dmc4687@xxxx]
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2003 8:24 PM
To: Dmc /dml
Subject: [DML] idle yet again


Ok- high idle question for the list yet again.

I've check the linkage and it seems ok; the cable could be sticky but I
think there is probably something else going on.
I've adjusted the two micro-switch screws so that the stop screw doesn't
contact at all and the switch is getting depressed, but yet I've still
pushed on it and it has changed idle slightly. I've pushed harder on the
throttle linkage arm and actually had the car die on me. I thought that was
weird.

I turned the ignition on without starting the car and the idle speed
regulator was buzzing pretty darn loud. How loud should it be? I can't
remember it being that loud before. Not sure if the
right-side-angry-hornet-frequency valve is buzzing because it's so loud.

I do have a vacuum leak under the throttle plates area... I replaced o-rings
about a month ago and it's been squealing at me ever since but the high-idle
problem is new the last couple of weeks. I think it is one of the washers on
the allen-head bolts.
I'm going to deal with that sucker first, if I can.

Input appreciated.

-Kevin
#4687



To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxx

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/








Home Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN 


Copyright ProjectVixen.com. All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
DMCForum Mailing List Archive  DMCNews Mailing List Archive  DMC-UK Mailing List Archive

This site contains affiliate links for which we may be compensated