List, I am getting closer to figuring out my idle problem but i still have a little ways to go. it appears that my idle microswitch is somewhat flakey- when i have everything wired up with the switch depressed, i can tap it with a screwdriver and the advance solenoid clicks each time. it clicks too fast for my digital meter to register which is why it escaped me until now (when my system is now wired properly). i have a new switch on the way but at the time it seems to be working ok (verified with a timing light when the car is running). ok on to the next problem. first i need to know how to verify that my idle motor and lambda system are working properly. when cold, the car cycles up and down for about 2 minutes or so (getting a little chilly around here) which is normal (fixed pulse ratio runs rich). then it runs a little rough until it gets actually fairly smooth at full operating temperature. i watch with a dwell meter and i can see the needle change with engine running quality and temperature. additionally, the idle motor makes a lot of noise and the frequency valve buzzes. my last evidence is when i press the full throttle switch, it makes the dwell needle change too. does all of this add up to a functioning idle system? or is there a test i can do that will definitely answer the question? i just want to be sure this is ok before i continue. if that is good, then on to the next problem. i am looking at the dwell benchmarks as listed in D:04:15 in the workshop manual. when i start my car and it is cold, my needle hovers around the 30 deg area instead of the 50-60. it is also around 30 deg give or take 5 deg when i disconnect the lambda sensor in the wheel well instead of 40-50 fixed needle. i can turn my CO screw until the needle varies from 35-45 or pretty close anyway as per the manual (O2 sensor plugged in) but when i press the full throttle switch, it drops down to 30 deg again. these numbers are not close to what the book shows. i tried turning my screw in small increments from almost-killing-it left to almost-killing-it right. same readings the whole way down the scale (except the swing with O2 sensor plugged in, which seems to stray away from 35-45 as i turn the screw away from what seems to be an optimum spot). even when the needle is in the 'right' spot during that single test, the car still seems to run a little too rough than what i know it can do. btw, i am reading the six cyl scale and i have the test lead connected to the orange wire for the diagnostics plug and the battery wire to the bulkhead battery aux terminal. I am in total outer space right now with this dwell meter - does anyone have any ideas on what the problem is? apparently, whenever the car should be in a fixed-ratio state, the dwell reads much lower than it should be. why? it is this problem that makes me wonder if i need to do some testing of the idle motor and freq valve, etc. many thanks to those of you that have privately emailed me and gotten me as far as i have, but i still need some help! at least i am learning a LOT as i go!!!! Andy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]