The usual culprit causing your symptom is the feed to increase volts from the ignition resistor when starting. There is a relay mounted in the engine compartment on the firewall by the resistor. That relay is activated by the starter solenoid and feeds battery voltage to the split side of the resistor to provide increased volts to the coil during the start phase. Dirty connections and poor relay continuity can cause the volts to be too low. Put in a new relay and clean the connections. Clean the connections on the resistor too. Test the circuit to be sure it is working properly. You may have to clean the connection down by the starter too - it is a blue/yellow wire connection. It should now start like it was never turned off. Harold McElraft - 3354 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote: > List, > > I am getting very close to having my car tuned as well as it will ever be. > Now it is doing GREAT when idling, starts immediately when warm, in fact it is > ALMOST perfect... > > the only 'problem' i have is that when the car is stone cold in the morning > (50 deg F), it seems to take a little too long to start the motor when > cranking. here is my procedure: > > 1. put the key in ignition > 2. don't touch the gas at all, just push in the clutch > 3. begin cranking. > 4. cranks for about 4 sec or so, starts to fire, then within 1/2 a second it > is running > > does it normally take this long for the car to start when cold? > i checked all my fuel pressures and rest, primary, and control pressures are > all within specs. if this isn't right, where else should i look? if you have > a suggestion, do you have a test to rule it out? i'm guessing either a > problem with the CPR, cold start valve, or thermo-time switch, but i don't want to > start tearing things apart unless this isn't typical. > > not too terrible or pressing a problem, but i'm just making sure everything > is perfect. > > Andy > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]