Re: hard starting when cold?

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

First: do you have resistance on air sensor plate at key turn? Ran
into fellow as SEDOC with leaking fuel distributor regulator. Didn't
have enough pressure to crack injectors until pump had spun for a while.

You didn't mention cold start valve diagnosis. Is it pumping? Check
for 12v in (white/red) and a good ground (blue/black) when coolant
cold. If you have no ground then thermal time switch is bad or not
grounding itself (or wiring is bad to it).

Don't know test for valve itself (unless you simply remove cold start
tube -- accessible between cylinders 1 & 2 -- and jump to see if fuel
comes out).

What is condition of ignition spark? How many volts are going into
coil? Is your starting relay cutting out one of the ballast resistors? 
Try running a 12v jumper to positive side of coil while cranking (this
is temporary -- don't screw it to coil terminal).

One of the reasons people move up to high energy ignition is cold
weather performance. If you don't want to make the 40,000 volt leap
Bosch has a 25,000 volt coil.

In fact, what is condition of all disposable ignition components? A
lot of condensation builds up over cold night, and nothing eats up
high tension like moisture. Can be especially bad under distributor cap.

Lamda has some sort of coolant temp sensor, but someone with intact
system will have to advise diagnosis.

Don't worry about accelerator pedal. Fuel delivery system has no pump
attached (like carburetor). Opening throttle plates will only make
starting harder.

Congrats otherwise. Can take a while to tune PRV just right.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> List,
> 
> I am getting very close to having my car tuned as well as it will
ever be. 
> Now it is doing GREAT when idling, starts immediately when warm, in
fact it is 
> ALMOST perfect... 
> 
> the only 'problem' i have is that when the car is stone cold in the
morning 
> (50 deg F), it seems to take a little too long to start the motor when 
> cranking. here is my procedure:
> 
> 1. put the key in ignition
> 2. don't touch the gas at all, just push in the clutch
> 3. begin cranking. 
> 4. cranks for about 4 sec or so, starts to fire, then within 1/2 a
second it 
> is running
> 
> does it normally take this long for the car to start when cold?
> i checked all my fuel pressures and rest, primary, and control
pressures are 
> all within specs. if this isn't right, where else should i look? 
if you have 
> a suggestion, do you have a test to rule it out? i'm guessing either a 
> problem with the CPR, cold start valve, or thermo-time switch, but i
don't want to 
> start tearing things apart unless this isn't typical.
> 
> not too terrible or pressing a problem, but i'm just making sure
everything 
> is perfect. 
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]