Ok, if it won't turn over when warm except with starting fluid then it's not your cold start valve. If it's your control pressure regulator being stuck in a "warm" condition I would expect the engine to run a little rough until it warms up. Is this the case? No...because when the engine is warm it still won't start. Hm. Ok so the CPR may be WAY out of whack then. As Dave has said, ensure that the setscrew is closing the idle microswitch when the throttle plates are at rest. If your idle regulator is cut out of the ckt, it may not have enough air to start. (choked off?) Ensure the idle regulator isn't stuck. Make sure it buzzes (That doesn't prove much tho. mine was a rusted piece of junk and it buzzed) The valve should open all the way, then slowly close over a period of 3-5 seconds when you first energize it. (Key pos II or "run"). (Again, choked off) When cranking, and NOT using starter fluid, do you smell a lot of unburned fuel? When it's running do the fumes drive you away? (Flooding?) How well does it drive? Lots of power? Smooth idle? (Too lean) I would check these things BEFORE messing with the CO screw. It's such a pain to set. I think you have no air, or not enough fuel to start. But we'll see what your answers are. Rich #5335 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxx> wrote: > this may sound silly...but you did check the condition of the inertia > switch right? > > I guess if that were the problem, you wouldn't be able to keep the car > running once you got it started. > > Oh well...just a thought. > > Let us know what it ends up being, > Josh > VIN 5102 > VIN 15964 > Ken's VIN 5609 (parts car...get it while it's here...ebaying has begun) > > > > freakybeetle wrote: > > >I have spent the last few weeks getting my DMC tuned up after years > >of not being driven. The car gets better every time I work on it, but > >there is still something that I haven't been able to work out. The > >car is almost impossible to get started with out using starting > >fluid. It has a new fuel pump, fuel filter, and cold start valve. I > >doesn't matter if the engine has been sitting for days or immediate > >turned over after turning it off, the car just won't fire by itself. > >It also has new plugs, plug wires, distributor, rotor, and the rest > >of a normal tune up kit. I have tried bypassing the thermo sensor > >that controls when the cold start fires, but still no luck. Any ideas > >or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I would really like to > >take the car to the SEDOC cruise in this month. > > > >Thanks, > > > >Jai > >2812 > > > > > > > >To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > >moderators@xxxx > > > >For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com > > > >To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews > > > >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > > > > > >