Start fuel pump diagnosis by simply jumping RPM relay (brown to white/purple). If pump spins, problem is elsewhere. Note brown line is not keyed (live all times) -- can't leave RPM relay jumped. If pump doesn't spin with relay jumped, check for voltage on brown line. If it's dead, check fuse #7. If fuse is good but line dead, you've got a problem in initial bundle of brown wires. If RPM socket is good, check for voltage at pump itself (white/purple). If it's good, check for voltage on gound side. If it's live too, you've lost the ground (make sure inertia switch is closed). If gound is good, pump is dead. Car will not run without fuel pump. Lost my ground about a month ago, killing engine immediately. Was able to diagnose within 5 minutes (AFTER I walked all the way back to house for an ice pick light). Rigged up a temporary ground -- inertia switch taken out of circuit by PO -- and drove car home. Spend some time studying wiring diagram. Are many functions that can be jumped from relay compartment (got headlights that way once when dash switch was DOA). Once mystery is taken out of electrical system, any malfunctions will be inconvenient rather than intimidating. Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "anaheim_21" <anaheim_21@xxxx> wrote: > Hello all - > > I have a question about the fuel pump, what symptoms would the car > show if the fuel pump was inoperable? Would you still be able to > drive the car? Does the relay / fuse update alleviate any of these > symptons?