Re: [DML] Re: Brass Idle Speed Screws

[Louie Golden <louie@xxxx>]

Interesting... thanks for sharing that Robert! I may fiddle with that the next time I get to play with my car. No worries... I will not be removing any parts from my car. The only thing that is removed right now is the vacuum hose that runs between the ISM and the cold start vavle. The only thing I'd have to do to return the car to normal is to remove the vacuum caps from the cold start valve and ISM, replace the hose, and tighten down the screw. 

I'm a firm believer in keeping the DeLorean in tact, and original. Even when I replace damaged/inferior parts on my car, I keep the originals. My cars previous owner did lots of cheap fixes, shoddy work, and I'm still replacing missing odds and ends from my car. So anyways, the moral of the story here is, I'm not saying everyone go out and go to a manual idle circuit. All I am trying to convey is if necessary, it can be done and the car won't suffer from it... and in fact one may find the car idles smoother, and accelerates stronger.

Louie Golden
VIN 10115 

--- "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
As it turned out, the problem was the Microswitch for the Idle Speed Circuit. It wasn't making proper contact/ I tried adjusting the stop bolt on the throttle armature, and that still didn't do a thing. I ended up bending bracket for the switch up to meet the stop bolt halfway. Enough so that the switch was pushed down almost all the way. VIOLA! The problem was instantly fixed!

Now if the manual by-pass on your car works, and you're happy with it, then by all means, go with what you're most comfortable with. However, for future referance, you might want to spend a few minutes making sure that the Microswitch is being fully depressed before ripping out/moddifying the entire Idle Speed Ciruit. It's a helluva lot easier, and cheaper!

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"

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