Clockwise to richen, counter to lean. What you're adjusting is height of piston within fuel distributor for corresponding sensor plate movement. Screw is on opposite side of pivot, so tightening it raises piston higher. See pic on page D:01:05. Go easy adjusting the thing. No BS: 1/4 turn makes big difference. See Message #32067 for Volvo procedure. This is bit of moot point until fuel system back to specs. Am afraid you're looking at replacement CPR and distributor minimum. Lamda may be toast too (won't stop engine from running, just running well. Why don't you be first to engineer out of car -- I never had to begin with on R30. Passed PA emissions without. You could start a trend...). Injectors COULD just be drooling from bad CPR and distributor. You haven't mentioned tank pickup. What is condition of baffle (check those screens!) and connecting hose? Pump boot is probably rotten too. I managed about 1,000 miles after purchase before my pickup system disintegrated. Had I known then what I know now, new pickup would have been one of my FIRST purchases. Am very pleased with John Hervey's. Because gas is sucked from bottom of tank it has no vapor issues (and no connecting hose issues). After replacing all this you'd be a mad man not to add $15 fuel filter... Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > I've taken my venturi apart to investigate. > > The good news is, the CO adjustment screw is not chewed up beyond > salvage. A little "deep creep" directly on it, and it was fine. > > The fuel distro is all wrong. I had to shake the venturi like a > maraca to get the plunger out. It's supposed to just fall out I > thought. Also, the sensor plate was bound up at one of the ends. As > soon as I tapped the end cap on the venturi, it loosened up and > bounced like it should. > > Now, for the question of the day: > > Which way is rich and which way is lean on the adjustment screw? > (Clockwise/counterclockwise please) ;) > > Thanks guys, > > Rich