More than likely you still have air in the system - probably an air lock at the radiator. A water pump gone bad usually makes noise and leaks but still functions - unless it froze, and is not turning, which might explain the belt thing. An alternator lockup will cause the same belt mess too. Did you check for rotation on the water pump and alternator? If all seems ok, I would recommend, when cool, loosening the bleed hose on the top of the radiator and bleeding off any trapped air in the radiator. It is on the passenger side - the smaller hose. It is a little awkward and you will probably have some coolant spill out - but at least you know the air is out then. Now that the radiator is full of coolant, check the reservoir again and fill to the maximum recommended level. Next bleed off any air at the thermostat housing air-bleed fitting. The extra bleed off kit is not a necessity in my opinion - the engine bleed is more than enough to get the air out of a properly functioning system. Start it up and watch for the recirculation stream in the coolant bottle. If there is a stream at least the engine is circulating coolant. As the engine warms monitor the recirculation stream. If it stops, open the thermostat bleed fitting and let any air escape. I will often put a hose over the fitting and let it bleed constantly into a container until I am through with the system. Keep the coolant tank at the max recommended level. As the engine continues to warm also monitor the hot side hose for circulation. As the thermostat starts to opens - the temp gage should be at the first white mark up the bottom mark - it will start to get hot indicating circulation. Trapped air, if any will begin to flow through the system. It may bubble up in the tank - Just keep plenty of coolant in the tank. If the return hose to the pump is getting warm at this point you should have enough circulation on the system that it will bleed off by it self now. Keep the coolant bottle at the correct level and when the fans come on turn on the heater - just turn the air dial to vent. That will allow the heater valve to open and remove any air in the heater. After the fans cycle off, turn off the engine, be sure the coolant bottle is at the max level or slightly over and put the cap on. Take it for a test drive. If nothing internally is wrong you should be good to go. I would keep a spare belt in the trunk and the tools needed to put it on. That belt probably came off because of a problem - the alternator bearing would be my guess. Harold McElraft - 3354 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "nbrommer2k" <nickbrom@xxxx> wrote: > I had a little "issue" the other day, and have had problems with > overheating ever since. > > Let me start out by stating that the cooling fans ARE working. > (Finally got those fixed, Toby!) > > Anyway, as I'm pulling into the parking lot at work, I see steam from > the engine compartment, and see my temp gauge way up high. I park it, > and see that the alternator belt is chewed up and flown off, and the > hose from the overfill to the water pump has come disconnected from > the pump. > > So, I reconnected the hose, and replaced both belt. > > Drove the car home, and the car was giving erratic temp readings. > But, was definitly still running hot. > > I installed the coolant bleeding kit, started it up, and it got up to > 220 degrees, at which point I shut off the car. I did this once > yesterday, and once today. It normally does not run this hot. > > No fluids are leaking, and when I run the car without the cap on the > overfill tank, I see no "spurts" of fluid coming into the tank. > > I always assumed when a water pump goes bad, it leaks coolant. I > replaced the water pump 3 years ago..is it bad already? > > Thoughts?