Sorry but it's already back in the vehicle and working just great. The gap I ended up using was 15 thousandths by trial and error.This equates into a three to five minute warm-up time.(The wider the gap, the more time it takes to close from indirect heat transfer) Inside the unit are two bi-metallic devices. The first is a contact point set that is designed to limit the electric heating element encapsulating the midpoint of the second Bimetal strip once the heat of the engine has saturated the case of the regulator itself. The second and more robust strip is designed to relieve the spring tension on the primary diaphragm to allow a richer gas flow at cold start-up via electro-mechanical means. The current is provided on the same circuit that drives the fuel pump. (this must prevent inadvertent operation if the key is on but the engine is not running) The vacuum line provides an additional method of enrichment via the presence of a vacuum from the intake manifold. The spring that flexes the primary fuel diaphragm is seated on a secondary spring loaded rubber diaphragm. This moves up or down depending on the vacuum available and can increase or decrease the flow of fuel independent of the primary electrical method. (sort of like a trap door under the main spring) An ewternal one way delay valve is also used to provide a ten second delay in order to establish an actual condition necessary for enrichment and not just a "vacuum spike". I am not an expert on these units. The delay valve appears to be a standard "carb to distributor" delay valve used on many foriegn cars in the timing advance vacuum circuit. DISCLAIMER: The above is just what I could glean from casual observation having never really researched one of these suckers before. Either way, there is nothing much to them and they appear to be pretty straight forward in design. They are definitely well designed and I would imagine that most failures could be solved with a simple cleaning. Once you tear one open, everything is pretty obvious. My opinion is: If yours is "DEFINITELY" malfunctioning and you have some mechanical ability, don't hesitate to crack that baby open and give it a good once over because there's nothing delicate or complicated in there! Rustproof (Rusty) Vin #1559 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx> To: <Rustproof@xxxx> Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2003 4:21 AM Subject: AW: [DML] Control pressure regulator gap > > Hey Rusty, > > can you email me a picture of the inside of the CPR ? > > I read that it looks different to regular CPR's, there should be > two bimetal switches or something similar. > > The oil question always starts such a big discussion. > That's why I told you. Get a good 10W40 and that's it. > > Regards, > > Elvis > > > > > Does anyone know the correct gap for the bi-metal contact points inside the > CPR? Also, I would like to thank everyone that responded to my question > regarding the correct oil weight. As usual, it was very enlightening! > Thanks, > Rustproof > Vin # 1559 >