You have 2 separate problems. The clutch is easy. Park in a lot with a lot of room in front of you. With the engine running pull the emergency brake on and hold your foot on the brake. Now shift into 1st gear and let the clutch up. If the engine doesn't stall then the clutch is gone. For your electrical problems have the battery charged and tested. Many places will do this for free to sell you a new battery. Next clean all of the "big" connections and all of the ground connections then get the alternator tested. If the battery is over 5 years old it is probably time to replace. The engine doesn't run good when the voltage is too low. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "TalksToGod" <5n-@xxxx> wrote: > I am trying to find out suggestions and maybe some help to my problem. > Here is the situation. While driving my DeLorean today, I noticed that > only in 3-5 gears and hard acceleration the clutch felt like it was > slipping, so naturally I thought okay, my clutch is almost bad with > near 60K on it (as far as I know, but the previous owner claimed he > purchased and installed a new pressure plate 10-20K previously). Okay, > park the car, change to get ready to take the transmission out, and > the car would not start. Turn the key to start - the engine wouldn't > even crank. I hooked up a jumper battery and the engine slowly turned > to a start. The battery light was dim but glowing on the dash. When > trying to accelerate the engine, it accelerated slowly and badly unit > I hit 6 thousand R.P.M.s, the light goes out, the engine idles fine, > and the acceleration back to normal. I took it on the road and I felt > the engine not accelerating as good again and noticed the light back > on dimming. The question, is the clutch suspected to be bad and the > light is just another problem, or is it that my alternator is dead but > running whenever it feels, and the engine couldn't produce enough > power and sucked the battery dry to keep going hence the slipping > feeling with the throttle full open. Also for further information, my > gauge said it was running a bit higher then 8 volts, and when the > problems went away after I hit 6 grand, it went to 10 volts. Whenever > I have just they key on and not trying to start, the battery light > does come on, which I never noticed until I did the frame work and > re-installed the frame. The car never runs 12 or 13 volts (according > to the gauge), more around 10. I am off to do some electrical voltage > testing and see what is going on. But the question about the clutch > still stands. Thank you all for your time and help.