--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, elvisnocita@xxxx wrote: > Interesting. What attachment points do you mean ? > No holes to drill ? I am very curious how this will work. > > And even more interesting - how will it be wired ? > The only spare wire I know which fits perfectly for an actuator or solenoid > ends under the T-panel. There may be +12V permanently in the door but then > there's still the problem that there's no signal wire left to tell a relay > that it > should activate the actuator/solenoid. <SNIP> Now this would only be speculation on my part on how the Zilla system will work, but it's really not a problem at all to wire up a trigger using existing wiring, and not having to splice a thing. It just all depends upon how the setup would be. The trigger could be the unlock wire feed. Unlock the door, and the lock solenoid slides the lock back. A timer chip (or possible a capacitor/ bleeder resistor set up) inside circuit is set to only trigger the secondary solenoid if it recieves the signal for a longer period of time than what the primary lock solenoid recieves. Hit the open door feature on the key fob, and it sends an unlock signal for like double the time than is normally required, and thus the secondary solenoid is triggered, and the door is opened! Since this kind of a setup would entail controls for opening doors individually, I don't see why the engineering couldn't be added in to also unlock the doors one at a time (what I would consider a HUGE improvement to personal safety). Connecting things would be totally simple. The feed wire would simply be a double-ended connector that would simplty plug in between both the lock solenoid, and the wiring harness. The ground wire would probably just hook up to the door frame where the bellcrank solenoid mounts onto the door (yes, there is an existing mounting spot available). It wouldn't be a problem at all. Now the only question that I have would be if a single wire could power 2 seperate solenoids at once. There is a dedicated 12V feed wire in the doors, but I can't remember if the car schematics show it connected to the rear defroster swtich, or to the ignition wire. So that means that it isn't continuous. But I'm pretty sure that I once tested it, and it was continuous on my car, and I got voltage with the key out. I'd have to check that. If it is, then you've got a dedicated feed to the bellcrank solenoid, and then you wouldn't have to worry about feeding two solenoids off the same wire. If not, perhaps the coupling inside of the car is easy to reach to convert it over. But using a seperate feed wire, you could set up a 555 timer chip, and send lower voltage, faster pulses thru the trigger wire that would be picked up by the timer chip to trigger the bellcrank solenoid, but couldn't be used to activate the door lock solenoid to avoid power drains on the system. So yes, a door launch kit could indeed be installed on the car, and not a single wire would need to be cut. Then only things you'd need to sacrifice are some fir tree clips, and some time to possibly adjust the torsion bars, and to possibly lubricate the internal locking mechanisms and connection rods (to lessen the loads on the bellcrank solenoids). Desert cars may not have rust, but that dust certainly gets everywhere in our cars! And when it gets into locking mechanisims, they become harder to turn. -Robert vin 6585 "X"