RE: [DML] STILL running a little rich...??
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RE: [DML] STILL running a little rich...??



Andy, I would replace the 02 sensor if it hidden been done lately then re
adjust the air fuel mixture screw or 02 screw in front of the fuel
distributor and it should be fine. Oh! I would up the idle to 950 instead of
750. That is to low. If you find someone with a CIS fuel pressure tester,
Yes it would be nice to do. Check System, control and standing.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Soma576@xxxx [mailto:Soma576@xxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2003 6:36 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] STILL running a little rich...??


List,

well i wound up getting my timing checked and my timing was off by 6
degrees.
as soon as that was adjusted, my car has ceased idleing erratically when
warm. now i have NO complaints with driveability!!! finally after 3 years
everything seems to be working beautifully... the car starts up immediately
every time, hot or cold, surges for about a minute or so when cold at
leisurely cycle until it finds the 'sweet spot' and idles at around 750
smooth as can be, and it doesn't fluctuate from that no matter how long i
drive the car.

my only complaints NOW are:
1. i'm barely getting 12 mpg in town (mostly on city streets, not much
highway). i have a manual and i don't abuse it. any ideas?
2. when i start the car cold in the morning and don't let it warm up, the
car
starts to sputter around 2500-3000 RPM no matter what gear you are in. this
continues for only 2 or 3 blocks. extremely short lived problem, but
happens
almost every time. why?
3. when i start the car cold, it still smells kinda rich, but not nearly as
bad as it did when the timing was off. is this normal or should i not be
able to smell the exhaust? once the car is warm, the exhaust is almost
non-existant.

as suggested in previous posts, i have checked all vacuum lines - good.
throttle - good. three brass screws - seated. cold start valve does NOT
leak when warm. vacuum is present at the proper places when hot/cold, and
not
present when it shouldn't be. timing? good now (set to factory specs). ALL
ignition parts are about a year old.

here are a couple things to consider - i have a cat eliminator pipe, accell
performance coil, K&N air filter. might make a difference?

the only thing i haven't done that i can think of is get the fuel/air
mixture
professionally checked. there are no shops in my area that have the
equipment. is this the final task?

any other ideas are greatly appreciated. i'm getting very close to wrapping
this up!

Andy


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