My PRV idles with bypass & balancing screws (like a Volvo). Works excellent, but lacks ability to fast idle -- especially useful on 28 degree mornings. Have engineered an "auxiliary air valve" from BMW 530 to accomplish this (am not partial to that particular model; was simply soonest ending eBay auction when I got bright idea). Uploaded JPG's to #5939's photo album. Text below: Aux air valves were apparently used by most other manufacturers of the time. Are solenoid or coil operated valves similar to heater core shut off valves. Cold, valve is open, allowing additional engine vacuum to operate sensor plate (fast idle). Warm, valve closes, limiting sensor plate movement to bypass screw. My valve has 3/4" ports. Stepped down to 3/8" with brass fittings. Vacuum source port also turned 90 degrees with an elbow (would have preferred model that passes straight through, but hey, this one works). Converted two 1/8 NPT nipples to 10x1 to fit manifold and upper air assembly (anyone else noted how close those thread patterns are? Die down right nicely). Used mega hose to avoid collapsing under vacuum. Line to air sensor plate makes pretty severe bend under driver's intake rail, so I reinforced with an internal spring. Also had to move spark advance to a smaller adjacent port (see old pic titled "R30 - Front". That's extent of my engine vacuum system BTW). Was hoping for a coil operated valve but got a solenoid. Oh well, what do you expect for $5. Next time intake manifold is off will attach ground wire to thermal switch in coolant pipe. Until then is triggered by a switch under the dash left over from earlier experiments. 12v supply is taken from old idle speed motor harness. Couldn't be happier with performance of this low tech idle speed system. Removes all the gremlins that plagued my automatic motor. Total investment: $20. Anyone want to buy a surplus idle speed motor and ECU? Bill Robertson #5939