RE: [DML] major frame repair - need advice

[Vin 5386 <delorean_stainless@xxxx>]

One thing I have discovered is the car comes apart
realitivly easy. Buy stock in WD 40 your going to need
alot of it lol. Actually alot of the bolts are
neapreme nuts or some other type of lock fastening nut
so they tend to not rust in place like 100% metal
nuts. Seperate the pontoon from the frame roll it out
into the open and take a good look at it. I sugesst
heating the epoxy with a tourch and scrapeing it off
then removing any residual with a high quality paint
remover. you can the scrub the frame grind out bad
spots, weld in new parts and coat the entire frame in
either a powder coat or a fexable type of paint that
will move with the frame as opposed to cracking like
the epoxy. Not sure about sandblast a frame, if youve
ever done it, it strips off a bit to much metal for my
taste. Also Galving from what I've heard can cause a
frame to warp if it is done in a dip solution.

just my .o2

Todd
Vin 5386
--- Nick Kemp <nkemp@xxxx> wrote:
> I did a frame restoration. My suggestion is to:
> - Remove everything form the frame
> - Determine if the frame is worth saving
> 
> If Good:
> 
> - Have it sandblasted
> - Then patch the bad spots. I used SS in some of
> the areas most lilky to
> rust again
> 
> Then I did the following:
> - Zinc Chromate the frame
> - Base layer of zinc rich epoxy
> - Finish epoxy coat of color matched to original
> 
> When taking things off the frame
> - label everything,
> - soak all fasteners in WD40 AND LET THEM SIT (I was
> less patient and broke
> a lot of nuts)
> - Arrange the parts on a board in relative position,
> - Put nuts and bolts back together and with their
> relative parts (you'll
> thank me for that one later :-)
> 
> Don't try to spot fix the frame before the
> restoration.
> 
> 
> and good luck,
> 
> Nick
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> 


=====
For up to the minute details on the restoration of Vin5386 point your browser to, http://www.khpindustries.com/stainlessrestorations.html

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