The front right lower control arm inner bushing failed on my daily driver yesterday, and I have a couple questions about the setup. Let me first describe the nature of the failure -- the inner sleeve of the bushing separated from the vulcanized rubber of the bushing body resulting in the inner portion of the control arm shifting across the captured inner bushing sleeve under stress. The resulting change in front suspension geometry causes alignment to be lost and can be disconcerting if there is such motion at high-speed. While replacement is straightforward (although tedious), and I have had the springs out of the car several times before, I was a bit puzzled at the setup. With the lower inner control arm bolt torqued to spec, the inner sleeve of the bushing appears to be pinched and frozen in place between the frame members it's bolted to. With the outser sleeve of the bushing pressed into the lower control arm, and the inner sleeve of the bushing pinched in place, it would appear that the suspension travel would invariably twist the bushing in a way that would result in the bushing rubber twisting loose from the inner sleeve, like the failure on my car. How is the lower control arm geometry and bushing setup supposed to work? Is the intent that the vulcanized rubber of the bushing be pliable enough to accommodate the repeated travel of the suspension? If that is the intent, then any bushing replacement that uses harder materials for that portion of the suspension would seem to be unusable, since the bushing body itself is responsible for accommodating the twist associated with the full travel of the suspension. Since pulling the lower control arms out is not my favorite DeLorean job (I always get nervous about compressing the springs), I'd like to do the job right. Unfortunately, the original setup doesn't look at all to be robust and I'd hate to do all the work to replace the bushings just to have the fix be short-lived. Knut