Murray, there is a big difference. Like most people, you chose an alarm system for reasons like features and then your friend was forced to "adapt" it to the D. I chose my system specifically to match the D's wiring in an easy way and still gve me all the features I wanted. For example, my box was chosen because it uses .5 second output pulses for the door actuators and locks. In other words, I did all the engineering *before* I choose a model of alarm box. I spent days analyzing different manufactuers boxes and schematics. I then chose one that I could intergrate into the car's wiring with a minimum of fuss that I knew would work perfectly. It's all in the engineering effort put in before a single wire is cut. (Not what usually happenes.) The result? Everything you mentioned with a mininmum of work and 95% of that in the relay compartment. No scopes, no fancy test gear, nothing but time and the car's schematic (as bad as it is) was needed. It isn't that hard, especially if you have someone who's done all the engineering and documentation beforehand. It's why my mail box is full of messages from owners smart enough to realize that. You went it alone and your pal charged you to boot. Btw, there are $20 modules that will solve an astounding variety of install problems like your friend encountered. A good installer should know about them. My favorite is the PAC TR-7 Universal Trigger Output Module, an impressive device for the number of things it does. I didn't need any of those because I did the legwork first, but it sure beats building something custom to solve a problem like that.