Ford windshields circa 1980 are also glued in. Have cured leak on a Lincoln and my truck same way, although I used basic silicone from a gun (that stuff doesn't fool around -- clean up excess while it's still wet). No problems after 3 years. Question for Rick: "It, however, hasn't been exposed to rain, so my success or failure is theoretical at this point. I hope never to test it." Your D doesn't come out in inclement weather? Kind of defeats purpose of our "rustproof" little cars... Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxx>" <twinenginedmc12@xxxx> wrote: > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote: > > Q: I've had wet carpets in the past; and now I've noticed what > looks like > > tar oozing from underneath the windshield into the interior side of > the car. > > Could this have oozed out and created a leak point? How can one > tell? Can I > > take this to a shop and have it reseated? > > > > Thanks, > > Kevin > > Hi Kevin. > I've had this oozing problem on another car. The front windshield > bead used on DeLoreans is that squishy butyl stuff. It obviously can > dissolve under certain conditions. > > I have successfully removed, and reinstalled my DeLorean's windshield. > It was not easy. I think the only reason I pulled it off, is because > I've broken windshields on previous attempts on other cars, and have > learned from my mistakes. Also, a number of little unrelated > problems popped up that might have to be ignored by a professional, > who's after all doing it for the money, and is under a time budget. > No offense intended. > > Having done the job, I know what I would do, and not do, if I were in > your shoes. > I would remove the top windshield bezel plate, and seal the joint > between the top edge of the windshield with RTV sealant. Getting > this plate off is not too hard. The screws are hiding under the > weatherstripping. > > I would be pretty liberal with the sealant. While I was there, I > would also try to seal the edges of the stainless steel bracket, the > one that holds down the bezel. > For good measure, I would put a blob of sealant over the screws that > hold the stainless steel bracket down(if they haven't rusted to > powder, that is), completely covering the screw holes. > > Also, I would cover all the exposed underbody material with a thin > layer of the sealant as well, to prevent moisture from penetrating > the material, freezing, and cracking it, like it obviously had on my > car. > > I would put up with the slow dripping of the black goo, and clean it > off the inside of the windshield from time to time like I did on the > car I owned which had that problem. The only cure for that is > replacement of the windshield bead. > > It's overwhelmingly likely that only the top windshield bead is > leaking, so I would not worry about the sides, or the bottom of the > windshield. > > I would not remove, rebead, and replace the windshield just for a > leaking top bead. This is certainly a very good and thorough thing > to do, but the risk of windhield breakage outweighs the benefit, it > would seem. > > There's a good chance that the above tasks alone will seal a leak > between the windshield and underbody. > > > On my car, I've done all of these things. (though I also removed and > replaced the windshield) It, however, hasn't been exposed to rain, > so my success or failure is theoretical at this point. I hope never > to test it. > > You might ask John Dore for advice, who to my understanding has > successfully fixed his leaking roof and windshield. > > Rick Gendreau > 11472