Re: Re: [DML] help!

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

( Moderator's comment: There is a timing mark for both # 1 cyl and # 6 on the crankshaft pulley of the DeLorean version of the PRV engine. )

I think you're calling cylinder 1 by the wrong name -- shouldn't be
able to see timing mark from 6. Small technicality, but could confuse
others as they help.

You need to pull a plug or two. It's the only way to tell what's going
on inside your engine. I'd pay particular attention to the one that
isn't firing. If it's fouled with soot, either your mixture is too
rich or your spark is too weak (or timed too retarded). If it's burned
up or the metal's turned white, your mixtures's too lean (or the
timing's too advanced). You can also smell and feel the exhaust (after
your car is running again). A rich mixture is cool and smells like
gas. A weak mixture is hot and smells like molten metal. While you've
got a few plugs out of the car, compare resistance through them. I
have fried the rod inside, but that was on a car with points.

Am a little surprised by your cold start valve. Five seconds is way
too long for my mine (floods in two or three). I never could jump with
warm up regulator and get back to engine in time. Have you tried
starting the car with it unplugged? Use a LITTLE starting fluid if
necessary.

Must point out slight typo in John Hervey's reply: turning CO2
adjusting screw to right will lean the mixture, not richen. He is
correct to turn it in small increments only. If you go cranking that
thing around recklessly you may never get your engine restarted.

If you suspect the idle speed motor, unplug it and try cracking the
throttle plates or loosening the brass air bypass screws. John is
correct that without SOME air car will not start (remember that idle
air also moves air sensor plate -> piston in fuel distributor).

There's only so many places to look. John has approved your ignition
values. If you can see the timing mark on cylinder 1, the engine
hasn't jumped time or broken the chain (and it isn't timed crazy).
Apparently you've got fuel at least as far as the distributor. I'd
suggest unplugging both the cold start valve and the idle speed motor,
cracking the throttle plates manually, squirting a few seconds of
starting fluid PAST the air sensor plate, and see if the engine won't
come to life.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Rob, Let me make some comments:
> When you say running rough, was that at idle, If so it sound like
the car is 
> starving for gas or needs a tune up. Make sure the idle speed motor is 
> turning on at idle and opening the valve. It does it through the
idle speed 
> switch. If it doesn't turn on and open the idle speed motor, it may not 
> start. Over time the control plunger may need adjusting. That's the
small 
> hole in front of the fuel distributor, at rest if it is sitting to
low the 
> car won't start. How fast will it idle and is it smooth or rough.1/4
turn to 
> the right will make a difference. 
> 
> fuel pump output volume exceeded specs after the fuel filter ( not the 
> problem )
> -cold start valve sprays approximately five seconds ( supposed to if 
> operating proper)
> -bypassing thermal time switch for fifteen seconds still did not
start car. 
> ( Car was most likley flooded. ) I wouldn't by pass.
> 
> ignition system:
> -checked resistence of ballist resistors ( should be 1 ohm full and
1/2 ohm 
> ea.)and ignition coil
> --ignition coil checked slightly high. ( will do so over time but
normally 
> won't stop it from starting unless a wire id broken inside.If it is the 
> factory old one, I would change it.)
> ----substituted a coil from another delorean and no change ( ok )
> -checked spark at plug ends of wire for plugs 2, 3, 5, and 6 ( ok )
> --spark was orangish and arced about 3-sixtenths of an inch ( ok )
> ---never pulled any plugs to look ( no need to if it was running ok
when 
> stopped )
> 
> with ignition on, but not cranking:
> --voltage at first ballist resistor is 12.4 volts ( low, should be
at least 
> 12.66 which is battery voltage, but should not stop it from starting.) 
> --voltage at terminal 15 of coil was about 4.3 volts( ok, but what
was the 
> voltage on the resistor on the bottom right side during cranking.)
> --condensor to ground showed over 1.5 megohms. ( ok )
> 
> -timing at cranking speed using plug six about ten degrees btdc (
Timing at 
> idle should be at least 13 degrees before TDC. There is a mark on
the timing 
> plate for it. 
> --plug six was firing rarely(using intuction timing light) (
possible weak 
> fire, check voltage on bottom right of resistor during cranking. )
> 
> John Hervey
> www.specialTauto.com