Until the engine is actually up & running, you depend on gas stored in the accumulator (DeLorean don't energize the pump until a certain RPM -- anybody know what it is BTW?). But the accumulator diaphragm does not live forever, failing to hold fuel or pressurize the system. When cold, your cold start valve shoots raw gas into the intake, giving the engine enough fuel to bypass such a difficulty. You can swap its electrical plug with the control pressure regulator's to do the same hot, but do so judiciously -- the engine will flood within seconds. You can also jump the fuel pump relay, forcing the pump to spin as soon as the car is energized. Make sure you don't have a Brand X fuel pump without a check valve like me, in which case the best accumulator in the world won't do any good... Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxx> wrote: > I read with interest Bobby Mims 'chared wire' problem. I have a starting > problem, too. When cold, the car starts beautifully, but when hot, it > sometimes doesn't want to start at all. When it does finally crank over, > the engine sounds like it's running on one or two cylinders, then gradually > it pick-ups and runs OK. In trying to isolate the problem, I've replaced > the coil, condenser and also run injector cleaning products with the fuel. > > Recently I bought a can of Instant Start and sprayed some of it into the > throttle body which seemed to help in getting the engine started, but I > think the problem is elsewhere. If it were a chared wire, then I'd > probably encounter starting problems when the engine is cold also. A > little embarrassing at times when people are watching and the 'D' won't start!! > > Recently I checked the fuel pump wiring while sourcing another problem > which turned out to be damaged to the wiring harness inside the centre console. > > Would appreciate any ideas or possible solutions. > > Lance > Australia