RE: [DML] Breaking it

[Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx>]

If our brake light is out, just from removing the your tail light, it is
more than likely the circuit board. The rivets that hold the bulb sockets in
wiggle loose after a while. I broke down and re-riveted mine and haven't had
a problem since. PJ Grady sells updated boards as well. 

Have a friend press the brake while you have the circuit boards out. Press
the bulbs down with your hand and see if the added pressure causes them to
light up. If so, the connections went bad.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Christopher M. Hawes [mailto:chris@xxxx]
> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 5:43 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Breaking it
> 
> After I fitted a reflector the other day in my rear tail light cluster.
> (Kindly offered by a DOC member as my car was always missing one) I
> cleaned
> both clusters which dramatically increased the brightness but have now
> noticed that my break lights have packed up.
> 
> I am going to get a meter to check if there are any breaks.
> 
> Theories at the moment are as follows:-
> 
> 1) The Breaklight switch has decided to quit
> 
> 2) The wiring from the switch is knackered
> 
> 3) Have absolutely no other theories.....
> 
> I have not had the car that long, still yet to get my hands on a circuit
> diagram. Does anyone know if one exists online?????
> 
> Any suggestions???
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Chris H
> #5255
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: twinenginedmc12 <twinenginedmc12@xxxx>
> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 3:48 PM
> Subject: [DML] Re: Stuck Door
> 
> 
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxx, wmack <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
> > > I still can't get my driver's door open. I have tried messing with
> > the rods
> > > and everything, and nothing works. I'm at the point now where I am
> > thinking
> > > of drilling out the old latch assembly from the inside. Has anyone
> > tried this
> > > before?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Willie
> > > Vin 5043
> >
> > Hi Willie.
> >
> > It sounds frustrating. I'd be eyeballing my hammer as the tool of
> > choice by now, I'm sure (just kidding). If you can wait a day,
> > before drilling, I'll root around inside my door to come up with a
> > troubleshooting sequence. If it were my car, I would not drill out
> > the latch or use force unless there were no alternatives. You
> > mentioned in your first post that the rear latch works okay, and that
> > the door clears the rear pin. How did you determine that the door
> > clears the pin? Did you pull on the door with the front latch stuck
> > closed?
> >
> > What have you removed so far from the inside of the door to get at
> > the linkage?
> >
> > It's easy to tell whether the door is just a little jammed. I doubt
> > it is. To test the theory that the door is just jammed, you can
> > manipulate the latch rods inside the car, while having someone else
> > gently lift the door from the outside, from the bottom of the door,
> > not the handle, which breaks off easily. You can also do this alone
> > by reaching in the open window to manipulate the rods, while
> > simultaneously lifting the door.
> >
> > I suspect that the latch is still in fact closed, as if it were
> > locked ,and that we haven't figured out yet exactly what is wrong
> > with the linkage.
> >
> > Rick Gendreau
> >
> >
> >
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> 
> 
> 
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