I think your immediate troubles are caused by the circuit breaker. To bulletproof the cooling system electrically I would do the following: Change the 2 circuit breakers for the cooling and heater fans to the higher capacity Yank the Fan Fail Relay or whatever you currently have installed and get a Fanzilla Replace the Otterstadt switch and seal (make sure you have the clip or at least a strap-tie on it) As long as you are going over the cooling system I also recomend the following: Replace the fan belts and idler pulley bearings Install the self-bleeder Install the metal header tank Replace or at least test the pressure cap Add a coolant recovery system If you have the older piping system with the Otterstadt switch on top change to the later version with the switch on the bottom. When you are all done pressure test to 15 psi for 15 min, there must be no leaks. During normal use you should never have to add coolant, if you do then you still have leaks most likely behind the water pump, either a hose or a seal on the distribution pipe. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "iqmpike" <iqmpike@xxxx> wrote: > Just replaced the radiator on my Delorean (actually the entire > cooling system in the front, radiator, and hoses)... > > Anyhow... while it was sitting in my drive way, it hit the 220 mark, > and the fan didn't come on... it then kept heating up.... so I turned > the engine off... > > I turned the air on, which I understand is supposed to FORCE the > front fans on, and it didn't.... > > Next day, I went out.... the fans kicked on at 218 or so, and when > the air was on, the fans came on.... > > Then again today... same thing, they didn't function on either... > > Is this a common problem, and if so, what do I do to fix it? > > I would have thought it was a temp sensor.... but beings it doesn't > kick on with the AC I assume it's a relay or something? > > Any help appreciated.... thanks. > > Mike