Bill and group. As already stated is's current not voltage that kills the switch over time. I can normally take the switch apart clean the contacts and reposition them and should work fine. I am also working on a fix to divert the current away from the switch. John Hervey http://www.specialtauto.com/ << Wasn't going to say anything, but thread Re: voltage (I think you all mean amps) thru headlight switch prompts the following: When I got my D first thing I did was study its wiring. Initially thought was asinine (differs greatly from contemporary Detroit or Kenosha). Now see some wisdom behind the design. Martin Gutkowski is correct -- amperage thru headlight switch isn't enough to melt anything (not counting the bulb). This applies for all other dash controls as well. Makes sense to keep the amps behind the seat, does it not? FWIW: My headlight switch is squirrely too. Sometimes routes the juice, sometimes does not. At one point had to drive w/ relay jumpered (can you say "language barrier" -- since when does "main beam" mean all 4!). I rigged up a concealed switch to pypass the dash control when it wants to be cantakerous. Has behaved itself since. I think it's intimidated. Now, if I could only find a decent ground on a plastic car ... Bill Robertson #5939 >>