Re: [DML] R-134a Conversion -- as a kit?

["Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx>]

Dave,

As is already obvious from our off-list posts, another list member and I are
redoing the a/c systems on our cars. I'm staying with the original R-12 and
the other guy is using R-134a.

This whole Freon deal is a fiasco! I had a compressor rebuilt to put on my
car and the guy put PAG-100 oil in it. He warned me to only use PAG-100 in
the system and not to mix any refrigerant oils. I understood (perhaps
incorrectly) that PAG-100 is cross-compatible between R-12 and R-134a. Then
I go to a few autoparts stores to buy some PAG-100. None of them even knew
what it was. They had PAG-46 (or something like that) and PAG-150. So I
called the rebuilder and ask what the deal is. He suggested using PAG-150.
I said that the PAG-150's label said that it was not compatible with R-12.
He changed his mind and told me that if I want to use R-12 then to flush out
the oil he put in the compressor and replace it with mineral oil. I go in
NAPA and ask for mineral oil and the guy looked at me like I was from outer
space. So he brings out a bottle of Ester-100 instead and says this is
better. Well, the label says that it is cross-compatible between R-12 &
R-134a, so I think I'll use that. Comments anyone?

Every parts counter guy who I told that I wanted to use R-12 asked in a
bewildered voice, "Why?" Answer: Because I have it and it works better. No
further questions. The problem is that few of the auto parts stores sell
anything compatible with it anymore.

I found that "variable orifice tubes" to retrofit R-134a in the DeLorean are
available -- $20.50 US. We called it a "self-adjusting orifice tube" and
the "woman" behind the counter didn't have a clue what we were talking
about. So correct terminology is important. At the same place we also
bought an R-12 orifice for my DeLorean that cost $1.50 -- ouch! :-) The
dryer they showed for a DeLorean was wrong. It had one of the large ports
exiting the bottom. So we gave them our cross-reference number, and that
one matched. The label specifies that the desiccant is cross-compatible
with R-12 & R-134a. It cost $38. Ouch again! :-)

It is hard to say if it would be feasible to sell an R-134a conversion kit
unless you also rented all the stuff to do it. It is probably a given that
anyone who would attempt such a thing will already have a gauge manifold
set, but you also need a vacuum pump and maybe a flushing tool. I haven't
tried flushing yet, but according to the directions on the can the fluid is
supposed to be used with special equipment and also be recovered like used
refrigerant. I'm going to see what that costs. So far someone told me that
all you need is a venturi siphon tool that you blow compressed air through.
It sucks up the flushing fluid and blows it through the system. Sounds
simple enough, but is it necessary? Can I just pour the stuff through using
a funnel and then blow it out? BTW, the NAPA guy specifically warned me not
to use Brake-clean. He said it would leave a residue and cause the
compressor to go bad.

I get the feeling that by the time I buy all the equipment to rebuild my
system, it is less money than paying a shop to do it. And once I have the
equipment, I can do it again even cheaper!

I have a suggestion: Let's rename the DML to the DRL... the DeLorean Rumor
List. Hey, I read it on the internet, so it must be true!

Walt