A #7 meltdown is not common but does happen. The cause is too high a draw and oxidation and loose fuseholder contacts. The usual repair is to remove the wires from the fuseholder and install an in-line fuseholder. NEVER OVERFUSE. That is never use a bigger fuse than specified as it will change the protection of the circuit and wiring. It is a little ironic that the part that is supposed to protect the car from damage can actually damage the car! Let this be a lesson to all owners to inspect the fuseholder occasionaly, this is a case of "out of sight, out out of mind". The "hidden" areas of the car MUST be watched. During Tech sessions where the Delorean venders look over cars many times very obvious things are found, all the owner had to do was look and they would have seen these things for themselves way before. If you don't have a Fanzilla I recomend keeping a constant eye on the "Fan Fail Bypass" wire as they have been known to melt. If you start to smell something unusual the first place to look is in the fuseholder area. Also look at the battery once in a while for loose connections, battery acid leakage, or broken hold-down strap. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Mark Fearer <mfearer@xxxx> wrote: > Hi all. I apologize if this is in an archive somewhere. I went to start > my car after the winter hibernation. Cranked, but would not turn > over. Adding some gas directly to the carb would start the engine, but as > soon as that fuel burned up, the engined stalled. In troubleshooting the > fuel pump, found the fuse for the fuel pump melted in the fuse box. Common > problem? Faulty, rusty, intermittent wiring? I am thinking of doctoring a > fused by-pass, but using the same fuel pump wire. Any ideas/alternate > suggestions? > > Mark Fearer > 3072 > Manchester, New Hampshire