Jim, It is unclear in your post -- have you actually tried using the Grainger collars on your car or are you just speculating? I got the idea myself to use pillow blocks from Grainger, but that would require some machining to cut off or mill off the lip meant to hold the bearing centered. I never bothered to check if they sell collars. That would be a lot easier to use. > The only other consideration is machining a > groove in the top of the clamp just to keep the lower coil spring seat > centered. But you could do this with a simple spacer or washer if you wanted > to. This may be unnecessary. Do you know about Byrne Henninger's shock conversion kit? This is one of the idiosyncrasies of his kit that I don't like. It seems that the spring cup could slide off, but he says that no one has had any problems. I posted a shock conversion essay to the DML a while back before you joined the list. Check for it in the archives under "shock" and "Byrne". I like Byrne's design best, but it still needs some refining IMHO. I think John Hervey sells it on his website. Another alternative to your idea of machining a groove in the top of the clamp is to simply reuse the OEM clamp but cut out or mill off the lip that fits into the shock body. (If the new shock body is the OEM diameter.) The spring cup alone should keep the halves together. > Some clarification on the shocks I used. The 94004 Napa gas charged deluxe > is off of a 72 Mercury Marquis. The 94013 is from a 69 Camaro. I think that the Camaro shocks would be a closer match for the DeLorean. Isn't the Mercury Marquis is proportionately a heavier car? > So you can drill out the new shock spacer, > or just use 3 and 1/2 inch long 1/2 inch bolts which is what I did. I don't like the idea of using a thinner bolt. This leaves a bit of slop in the lower control arm. Drilling the eyelets bigger tends to leave a rough edge in the sleeve. Perhaps a small hone could polish the bore? But it's not critical. Walt