Matt and Group, As you may or may not know, there was an up grade to the starting system depending on your Vin #. But not having your vin # at this time, Then do this. Do and Open Circuit Voltage test. ( OCV ). When the battery is in the rest mode and not hot but just say just in the morning , put a DMM across the battery post and you should read about 12.66 volts. If you don't then there is a problem in the charging circuit or in the battery. To do a load test with out going to a gargage to local auto store, Put a DMM across the battery post and have someone crank on the car. The battery voltage should drop to around 10.25 volts, if it goes lower, then the battery or the starter could be going bad. The older the cars get the starter will pull more current. Let me know how it turnes out. John hervey http://www.specialtauto.com/ << Working on my car this past month has been fun but now I'm starting to have an itch to get this thing on the road. It seems to decide whether it wants to run one day and sleep the next. On some occasions including today it starts fine, runs for a minute then dies. Getting it started after that is about impossible. I already have a fuel filter and accumulator to change this weekend. My concern is a click click click (about a second apart) from the relay compartment when it does not start. Matt, The fuel pump will prime up for a second or two when you first turn on the key, that's normal, then when the motor starts to turn over, the pulse coil in the ignition distributor will send out a signal to turn on the RPM relay. This will start the fuel pump running unless there is something wrong in the circuit. Then unless there is something wrong with the fuel circuit or timing, the car should start normal. John Hervey On first crank I can also hear the fuel pump run, but after that I don't hear it again. I'm sure my accumulator is going out, but is the relay clicking normal? Could one of them be shutting off my fuel pump as well??? >>