Re: [DML] Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail
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Re: [DML] Fan Fail Light Without Actual Fan Fail



Martin, Joe and Group.
The Fan Fix is not an engineering marvel. It's an electronic device that 
works and keeps the price down under $100.00. The way it's wired, each fan 
works on it's own relay, so you have a 14 amp fan load on a 40 amp relay 
instead of two fans working on one 40 amp relay. The unit is wired to show 
voltage going to the fans:hense the fan fail light, lights up when power is 
going to them. It's not a hall effect sensor effect. As yawl know the under 
design on the De lorean didn't work long till it burned up or cooked it's 
self and was rendered useless. So, due to the extreme low to no failure rate 
of the fans, The Fan Fix and the fan Fail replacement was wired to show 
voltage going to the fans by lighting the center consol light. The upgrade I 
build is better than the official replacement in the De lorean work book and 
replacement. De lorean used a jumper wire. We fuse ours where they didn't. De 
lorean wasn''t worried about the fans either due to the low failure rate.
If people will look at the positive instead of always looking at the negative 
and understand the unit before it's criticized, you may see some of the 
positive features of the fan fix lighting the light on the dash.
#1. You can see the cycling of the A/C low pressure switch when your low on 
Freon. This will help you from destroying the $250.00 + compressor. :-)
#2. When the A/C isn't running, you can now see when the otterstat is cycling 
on and off by the dash light and not have to guess or not even hear at all 
the fan are or not coming on. :-). Then you can reference by the gauge when 
they are coming on.
#3. The way The Fan Fix Dual 2 x 2 is wired, the Circuit breaker is 
eliminated because we now faster acting fuses instead of the old slow circuit 
breaker. :-). 
The circuit breaker is always going to over heat and scorch the wires and 
turn on and off giving you false sense of what's going on. :-(,,. If you 
upgrade to the 40+ amps breaker, your just allowing more current to flow and 
you have lost any protection you may have had.
#4. Also by the way I wire it, you no longer draw power off the wiring loom 
which will lessen the load on the electronic ECU's.
By these simple ways of designing the units, the price is right, it's 
warranty for life, and it's not an engineering, complex device that has more 
parts to over heat, break and run the price up. I go by the KISS theory. 
Keep up the good work. I like to see engineers get onto a problem and make it 
bigger that what is:-)..
P.S. I could build all the features into my unit, then the price would go up 
and then all I would hear is the complaints of high price.
Have a good one.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
Trying to keep it simple.






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