Re: [DML] Fuel Mixture unit Gasket Leak?
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Re: [DML] Fuel Mixture unit Gasket Leak?



<< How common is it for there to be a leak in the gasket that goes 
between the lower housing of the fuel mixture housing and the 
throttle valve assembly? 
( Pete and Group, I have taken apart several air flow mixture units and the 
gaskets were in good shape I would be more worried about the Idle speed motor 
tube that goes into the lower part of the air flow meter.If it's not almost 
perfect. Total loss of vacuum.) Car won't run right.)

The reason I ask is that my car was running ok, with the exception of 
some issues I posted on last fall where the car would be going fine 
down the highway, but when I released the gas for a moment and then 
accellerated again, the car would just start dropping speed. It 
seemed as if backing off the accelerator would help a bit, but the 
car wouldn't go above 55, and I'd have to do some quick lane changes 
as everyone here in Detroit wanted to speed by...
( Again, If you have checked the brass hose going into the air flow mixture 
lower housing, then I would say your having another vacuum leak that won't 
advance the dwell or the warm up regulator isn't working right. There is tiny 
filter in the warm up regulator gas input side that may be partially stopped 
up. You can have pressure but no power due to gas starvation, the same 
symption can occure it the fuel filter is stopped up.) The fuel system is 
like you blood system, it has to flow freely to work right. A stopped up 
filter in the regulator could be a lot of Yall's power problems.) 

I decided a tune up couldn't hurt the situation, but then the 
nightmare really began - after new spark plugs/wires/cap/rotor, 
(taking off the two bolts and pulling up on the mixture unit to get 
clearance to get the distributor cap off, and the car ran like 
complete garbage. Couldn't go above 25. I looked and looked for any 
sign of a vaccum leak, disconnected wires, etc. Nothing that I could 
spot. I started replacing the replaced parts, with the old parts that 
at least would let the car run good enough to drive around town, and 
still the same symptoms. The car sat through the winter in the 
garage, and now when I went to turn it on, it won't start - unless 
you give it gas right away and keep it above 1000rpm. No longer does 
it sit at the nice fast idle, then back off after a couple minutes. 
You just have to kick in the gas or else it won't even be close to 
staying alive, and the word idle is not a part of this car's 
functionality any longer! If you floor the pedal, it won't go above 
1000 or 2000 or wherever you have it - it just sounds starts 
sputtering. If you back off the accelerator a bit, it zooms up in 
RPM very fast. If you accellerate more gradually, it will rise, but 
usually sounds a bit rough in doing so...Took the plugs out - all are 
equally alike - dull black.
( Dull black would indicate to me a rich burning fuel system. It sure looks 
like the warm up regulator is cooked.) I do now have a good used warm up 
regulator that I can loan out, with a deposit.) 
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/ 


Pete Bartusek
#6707
>>





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