> If I > backed out the set screw for the idle microswitch, the idle speed would > jump and the engine would run much more smoothly. I'm stumped on that > one. I think you might be clicking the microswitch off so that the idle speed circuit is disabled. A source of vacuum leak that is easily overlooked is where the "rams horns" pipe connects to the rest of the intake manifold. The OEM gasket is paper thin and tends to leak if it had ever been apart before. > The CO set > screw has not been tampered with. That isn't always a safe assumption. > With all of that completed, I restarted the engine and the car idled > fairly smoothly, and had snappy acceleration for about an hour. Then, > it suddenly just quit, and would not restart. In fact, it still will > not start. Well, let me correct that statement -- it will start and run > briefly, then quit. And that's not just at idle, but at any > pedal/throttle position. This does not sound like a classic hot start problem to me; although, it could be a hot start problem coupled with another problem on top of that. The problem with these engines is that if you get more than one problem happening at the same time then it gets real confusing. You might have a thermal breakdown of your ignition coil. I don't know anything about a J&S spark controller, but I suggest removing it until you can make the car run well without it. > Unfortunately, I do not have a high pressure fuel > gauge as yet, so I am just guessing. Get a gauge. It eliminates a lot of uncertainties. > The hose is in nice > shape, but rather soft, so I am going to try the stainless steel spring > fix to ensure there will not be a collapse. I don't think you will be able to find a SS spring. The screen door springs are cadmium plated. I'm getting ready to post an alternative method of spring insertion to the DML tech area. My method works a lot easier than the currently posted method. But putting a spring in mine didn't help the noise problem at all. To sum it up real quick, blow a piece of string through the hose, then use it to pull the spring through. It beats trying to soak it in hot water and push it through. > What -was- rather distressing is that some fuel additive or other had > started to melt my pump support boot. If your fuel pump boot is OEM, expect it to be rotted. Walt