When bleeding my brakes, I used the same Mityvac pump only I didn't follow the directions that well. It didn't occur to me that vacuum bleeding the brakes is done in the reverse order as pressure bleeding. I followed the directions for wrapping the bleed screws in teflon tape, but I found that no matter how much teflon I used, plenty of air still bypassed the bleed screws. The directions explained how to tell the difference between "small bubbles" that bypass the bleed screws vs. "large bubbles" that need to be purged. Since I got plenty of "small bubbles" along with occasional "medium bubbles" that the directions didn't mention, I dabbed teflon paste outside the calipers where I thought air was getting in and managed to vacuum some of the paste into the brake fluid. (Don't try this). I agree with Dave Stragand that it is a good idea to leave teflon tape on the bleed screws because brake fluid residue doesn't age well. I've made it a practice to mop out the remaining brake fluid from the bleed screws before putting the dust covers on. If you don't remove it, it will turn to gunk and contribute to problems later on. As a variation on the theme of vacuum bleeding: If I were trying it again, I would specially modify a spare set of bleed screws by welding shut the hole on the side and drilling a new hole straight through the screw. This would allow the screw to be seated completely so that no air would bypass the threads. Then when I'm through I would replace these screws with unmodified ones. No air should re-enter the system with the screws out because they would gravity bleed. My biggest waste of time was not keeping an eye on the fluid reservoir. If you run the thing dry then you have to start all over again by taking the master cylinder off and bench bleeding it (again!). After that I hooked a continuity meter to the low fluid switch in the cap so that I could hear when the fluid got too low. But this safeguard would probably be unnecessary if you aren't sucking a lot of air around the bleed screws. The next time I bleed my brakes, I'm going to try the home made pressure bleeding method only instead of using a bug sprayer I would use dry shop air regulated to a really low setting. I am apprehensive about pressurizing the reservoir. It seems like pressure could cause it to leak easily. And instead of using teflon on the threads, I might buy a bottle of the brush on stuff that is specifically made for brake bleed screws (not the gooey plumbers variety). Walt Tampa, FL