I've heard some bad clunking noises long enough under my car, so I did a complete inspection of every suspension component and found no problems. I suppose I have some loose body bolts, but I'm not ready to take the rear fascia off to tighten them. Anyway, while I had the car up in the air with the wheels off, I decided to check my rotor runout since I told y'all that I'd eventually get back to you about it. My front cross-drilled rotors had no runout that I could measure, but the rear ones are a different story. Here are the specs: Left rear run-out (inside) 0.0275 in / 0,70 mm Left rear run-out (outside) 0.0205 in / 0,53 mm Rotor thickness uniform @ 0.476 in / 12,09 mm Right rear run-out (inside) 0.0270 in / 0,69 mm Right rear run-out (outside) 0.0260 in / 0,66 mm Rotor thickness uniform @ 0.484 in / 12,29 mm Compared to David T's spec of .0025" or Jan's of 0,15 mm, mine are way off. Now here is the rest of the situation: My brakes seem to be working fine with no pulsation whatsoever. I am getting some occasional squeal on the right side, but I don't see any glazing. If I leave the rotors alone, then I feel like that excessive(?) wobble is going to wear my calipers out. If I have them turned, then doing some math indicates that when they are through, my rotors will be less than 11,7mm which according to Jan & DMC Joe is going to be too thin. And these are almost new rotors from PJ Grady. These are supposed to be premo parts. A local brake guy told me that all new rotors should be turned before installed on the car just for general principle's sake. So what should I do? Turn them or leave them alone? Walt Tampa, FL