When replacing brake pads you should use 80# grit pads mounted in a drill and scuff the surfaces of the rotor. This is necessary to allow the new pads to "break in" and also condition the surface of the rotors. It exposes fresh cast iron to the pads. It also removes any tendency to "threading" that is the tendency for the pads to move up and down like a record player needle following a track. If this doesn't help there are tubes of anti-squeal compound that can be applied to the backs of the pads. Make sure that there is nothing loose or caught up like a spring or clip that could be rubbing, and that the E-brake pads aren't dragging. Where did you get the pads? The only way to be sure you have the correct pads is if you got them from a "D" vender. This is a case where just because they physicaly fit doesn't mean they are correct. Different pads are compounded for different cars and you cannot tell by looking at them. Sometimes pads come with a plastic shim attached on the metal backing plate. The point here is if you got them localy and they used a cross-over in many cases it is just a matter that they fit but may not really be correct. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Adam Price" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote: > > I still have the chirping sound when driving my car. I tried gently applying the brake and found that the sound stopped, so I replaced all my pads