Re: [DML] My FIRST proper questions!

[Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>]

Hi Scott - and everyone else who answered,

It took a lot of head scratching but did indeed turn out to be a jammed plunger in the distributor - once freed up the engine ran as sweet as the day it left the factory. No hot start problem, and we did check the frequency valve, temperature sensor, cold start valve and control pressure regulator. All were working fine. Basically the only way we could start the car was with the CPR plug on the CS valve, but as soon as the engine was revved, it would stall.

We weren't sure the problem wasn't electrical (and evidence of IDC connectors on the distributor governor cabling suggests we weren't the first!) so I kept a close eye on everything in the relay compartment and I'm happy to report everything worked fine. This car has such a low mileage, it has none of the updates, and guess what? When we did get it running we let it run hot to bleed the coolant, and bugger me if the fan fail light didn't work! on came the right fan, and the left fan remained stubbornly still, and *plink* - my fan fail light was on.....

Now electrical problems I can handle :-)

Thanks again

Martin

S CAGLE wrote:

>
> Martin;
>
> I had a very similar problem when I got mine up and running (it had sat for 10 years or so). It turned out to be the control pressure regulator (sits on the drivers side of the engine, bolted to the side. Has fuel lines running to it, and a rubber vent hose hanging off the side) If I remember what Rob Grady told me about it, this is a part of the fuel system that is usually overlooked when cleaning out the systems, and can have just as much corrosion in it as any other part. On another note, when I had to repeatedly do restarts on my car, and killed my battery as you had, I encountered another problem; I burnt out the fuse for the fuel pump, it melted right through the holder. Make sure you watch for any fuse over heats. Hope this helps!!
>
> Scott
> 16738