The casing should already have some insulation on it. The entire flat bottom portion and the lower side walls on my unit have a thin piece of foam covering most of each side. This seems to help with most of the condensation. Also, when the AC is on in a closed car, the temp with drop along with the humidity, so interior condensation will be at a minimum. However I too had a clogged drain tube ealier this year. But many of the leaks from it appeard to be condensation, so I was stumped for a little bit. When I figered out it was glogged up it actually took quite a while to get it cleared out. After an unsuscessfull attempt to "suck" the blockage out, I blew it back in. It drained a crapload of water, but clogged back up again the next day. Here is where it is nice to have skinny little arms. I removed the blower fan and the speed resistors, then reached my hand into the evaporator casing. I pulled out a few handloads of crud. After another round of sucking and blowing the drain tube, it seems to have cleared up good. No more wet carpets for me. But with all this heat I just wish my AC could make up its mind weather it wants to work incredibly good, or just mediocre. Jim Reeve MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club --- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Mike Griese" <mike.griese@xxxx> wrote: > With all the heat and humidity in the upper midwest, > my AC has really been getting a workout. I noticed > that the carpeting was damp on the passenger side of > the interior. The drain hose for the evaporator casing > was restricted. A few seconds with the shopvac seems to > have cleared the restriction and about 2 cups of water, > however I am still getting a damp floor. Now it appears > that the moisture is coming from the outside of the > evaporator casing. I was working on the car with the > doors open and the AC running in a very hot and humid > garage. Is it possible that the condensation on the > evaporator casing won't be a problem with the doors > closed? If not, has anyone had any experience insulating > the casing? > > Mike