I had a cooling problem during very hot weather. It turned out that when the interior of the car got heat soaked, the cooling fan breaker would trip because of the high ambient temperature. This happened when I drove from Mobile to Los Angeles for the DOA Expo. A quick call to John Truscott verified my suspicion. I cleaned all of the connections and purchased a PC fan to lay in the relay compartment to help cool the breaker. Hint, leave the cover off of the relay compartment and fold the carpet back so you get good air circulation. In L. A. I purchased a fanzilla and installed a higher rated breaker. Problem solved? Fast forward to Cleveland 2000. Again during hot weather my fans would not run, even with the AC on. It turns out that once again the breaker was tripping. Yes all connections were cleansed and tightened and my grounds were clean and tight. I had the fanzilla but since the breaker was tripping, there was no power available to turn the fan fail light on via the fan zilla. When I got home, I went through the schematic and the relay compartment. I found that by moving a couple of wires to different ports on the fanzilla plugs, I could bypass the stock breaker and rely on the fanzillas fuses to provide circuit protection. By doing this, the fan fail light will work and the troublesome breaker was eliminated. I posted a description of what I did last year. I think I labeled it "Fatal Flaw" or something to that effect. Scott Mueller DMCNEWS 002981 DOA 5031 >Subject: Re: [DML] how hot is too hot? >I think your hot running problem may be from the otterstat. My original one >didn't turn the fans on until the temp gauge was around 220 +/- a needle >width. The next time your car starts getting hot, see if the fans don't >come on until around the 220 mark. >Walt Tampa, FL