Arne, I found it! But not in the archives. I found it using a search utility on my own hard drive. I suppose it won't hurt to have the whole thing re-posed to the archives again -- it is very valuable advice in my opinion. Also about starting in second gear. Yep, I stand corrected. I was remembering what my old (bad) GC did with a blown cap. With both solenoids off, you are in 3rd gear. Here's the old post: -----Original Message----- From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxx> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: Saturday, February 24, 2001 5:33 PM Subject: Re: [DML] Auto trans gov. problems... <snip> >In diagnosing this kind of problem, it is essential to first >determine whether the governor is at fault or whether you have a >mechanical problem. Fortunately this is easy to do. You need to build >yourself a little test rig that lets you see (while you drive) what >the governor is telling the transmission. This has been covered in >the list in the past (check the archives), but here's the general >idea: > >1) Find the round black terminal block where the computer governor >connects to the solenoid wires. It is in the engine compartment on >the left firewall. Looks like some kind of diagnostic connector, but >is really just a set of terminals. There are three wires going >through this connector: One each for the two shift solenoids and a >common. The center terminal is common. There are also two unused >terminals. If we number the five terminals clockwise from 1 to 5, >what we want to monitor is the potential between terminals 2 and 3 >and between 3 and 4. If I remember correctly, the common (terminal >3) signal is +12V, and terminals 2 and 4 get pulled to ground by the >governor to activate the respective solenoids. In any event, this can >readily be determined with a test light or voltmeter. When the car >is in neutral or low gear, you should read a 12V potential between 2 >and 3 and also between 4 and 3. The trick is to be able to watch how >this changes when the transmission is in action. > >2) To accomplish this, run a 3-wire cable from this connector into >the passenger compartment (4-wire telephone cable from Radio Shack is >good for this). Connect the three wires to terminals 2, 3, and 4. Run >the wire up your steering column so it comes out between the dash and >the column. > >3) Obtain 2 LEDs (Radio Shack again) one red and one green. You also >need two 1500 ohm (brown green red stripes) resistors. Connect a >resistor in series with the other end of the wires coming from >terminals 2 and 4. Connect the other side of the resistors to the >negative (unmarked) sides of the LEDs. Connect the positive (marked) >sides of the LEDs (I'm doing this from memory--hope I don't have it >all backwards) together and also to the wire coming from the center >(#3) terminal. You can impress your friends by neatly packaging this >precision instrument inside a 35mm film can. > >4) Loosen your steering wheel adjustment clamp (you *do* know you >have one, right?) and let the wheel drop. Position the film can >between the steering column and the dash positioned so that you can >see the LEDs while driving and slowly raise the wheel so that the can >is firmly captured. Tighten the wheel in place. > >5) Turn on the key. Both LEDs should now be shining cheerfully >(assuming your governor is functioning semi-correctly). > >6) Go for a ride. If he governor is operating correctly, the lights >should go out one as a time, as the car shifts into second and third >gear, respectively. In high gear, both lights should be off. When >the vehicle downshifts, the lights should come back on in turn. It >should now be an easy matter to decide whether your particular >aberrant transmission behavior is due to bad advice from the governor >or mechanical problems in the transmission itself. > >If you are not comfortable dealing with such highly sophisticated >digital circuitry, please get some advice from somebody who is. I may >have gotten all this wrong and of course accept no responsibility for >damage to you or your vehicle. > >Hope this helps, > >Pete Lucas >VIN #06703