Christian, If the fuse melts down, there is a reason for it. The fuel pump is an electrical motor. If it's old and getting wore out it will draw more current and cause more damage to the electrical system. If the fuel pump has to work harder getting the gas maby due to a partially stopped up screen, then again it will draw more current and burn out the fuses and possibilty burn the RPM/fuel pump relay contacts. Putting in a higher fuse will always add to the problem. Replace the fuse with the correct one make sure all wires are connected firmily and see what happens. If it burns again, then the pump may be defective.. John Hervey www.specialTauto.com --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Christian Williams <delorean@xxxx> wrote: > This morning on the way to work, the engine stalled and would not start > again. Last night I put new brake pads on the car all around. Afterward I > took the car for a spin, so I don't think that the fuel pump failure is > related to the brake work I did last night. > > When turning the key to the "on" position, I do not hear the 2-3 seconds > of buzzing that the fuel pump usually makes. I read through the archives > and figured out where to start looking. Here's what I found: > > 1. Jumpering the brown and and purple wires on the RPM relay did not start > the fuel pump. > > 2. #1 fuse is not blown > > 3. #7 fuse is missing. I remember noticing that it was missing a week or > two ago. I don't believe it's ever been there. How could the fuel pump run > without it? Tried putting a fuse in for #7 - nothing different. > > 4. Using a volt meter on the main harness where the fuel pump connects > yeilded no signal. > > Does it sound like there's an electrical problem between the RPM relay and > the fuel pump? Is there any way to directly test the fuel pump - perhaps > hooking some sort of power source directly to the pump?? > > Any ideas are more than welcome. This is my daily driver car. > > -Christian > -3452 > "I fixed the brakes so well that the car won't go now"