DON'T DO THAT!!!!! THAT IS WRONG!!!!! Do not remove the battery leads with engine running. You can do a lot of damage. A battery serves two purposes: 1) as a voltage regulator and 2) a load for the alternator. Without the battery the alternator (regulator inside it to be exact) will sense that there is no voltage from the battery, meaning the battery is dead or there is a BIG load on the system. So it will pump ALL it can from the alternator with nowhere to go (because there is no load - battery). Also without the battery the regulator cannot adjust the votage correctly. Because of that you can get 68 volts in the system... even more. A healthy alternator is actually able to put about 80 volts out!! Imagine what that will do to all the electronics in your car!! Radio, lambda ECU, idle speed ECU and if your car happens to be automatic you'll have to replace the transmission governor. So, don't remove the battery leads with the engine running. And people please don't tell others that this is a way to test your alternator!!! To whoever you are - sk1pper. Please make sure that you have acurate and safe info before you post to the list. BTW, why do we have moderators on this list? Guys, I'm sure you've heard all the coments about this way of 'testing' a car. Please, please, please don't pass posts like this to the list. Somebody might do a lot of damage to the car destroying every electronics circuit in the car and in extreme situations it can actually cause fire. Since all that power from the alternator has nowhere to go it will dissipate as heat in wires and that can lead to FIRE!!! Let's hope we don't see posts like that anymore Tom Niemczewski vin 6298 (for sale) tomcio@xxxx ----- Original Message ----- From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper@xxxx> To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 8:26 PM Subject: Re: [DML] A letter of thanks and a little more > A sure way of testing the alternator is to start the car then remove one of the battery leads (preferbally the positive), then test the pos and neg for 12-17vDC. This will tell you if the alternator is producing electricity. I had to change my alternator and all was ok partly due to the old motorolla only producing 68vDC and the old rusted nuts causing resistance shorting out the charge. If you need to change the alternator, I have a list of part numbers that will get you a straight replacement from your local parts store, OR if you are like me, more power is always the way to go. I will have a new web page up in about 2-3 days @ www.sk1pper.com that has pic of mine and how i put a 140a alternator on. > > Let me know if you need any more info or if this even helps ... > > > sk1pper landry > > > > > Secondly.... after starting the car and backing it out > > for a nice 200 mile drive (now that i can see how much > > gas i have), i happened to glance over at my battery > > meter.. it was almost to 0.... like the alternator > > wasnt working..... it was fine before... i am > > wondering if maybe i screwed something up putting the > > tankzilla in???? When the needle goes down to the > > bottom like that, does it mean the battery, or, worse, > > i need to get an alternator???? I am going to > > disconnect the tanzilla tommorow and see if that > > helps.. if it does maybe its grounding somewhere, if > > not... i guess i'll buy the battery and if that doesnt > > work, head for the alternator > > > > Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at: > www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html > > To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: > moderator@xxxx > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com