Re: AC and fanzilla question

[dherv10@xxxx]

Steve, I have told everyone on the group that I'm not an engineer but 
a good parts man. I worked with engineers for years and was always 
told to look for a simple solution for the product. I have listened 
to people on this group complain about the cost of Zilla products and 
I finally did something about it. Yes: As an engineer you then know 
the difference in an inductive load relay and a resistive one. All 
the relay's in the De Lorean are resistive load and are prone to 
fail. I don't mind telling folks that I'm using a inductive load 
relay made especially for fan applications, it's not just heavy duty. 
The fan inrush current is around 60Amps and that is what this relay 
is made for. As far as open frame and being a hazzard. If that was 
the case then the humidity your talking about will not be stopped by 
a snap on plastic or metal case. That why I didn't cover it. I won't 
air flow to keep it dry as possible. Enclosed relays will hold the 
moisture longer and will corrode faster. Pull out your RPM relay and 
look at the contacts. Clean them while you have it out. Moisture and 
underated contacts is why a lot of fuel pumps fail. As far as exposed 
contacts. Look at the circuit breakers for the door lock. Terminals 
facing straight up for someone to short out along with the other fan 
circuit breakers.
I know that Bob has put lots of time in engineering the Zilla 
products and I know they are good because they are sold a lot and 
have a proven track record and he should be paid back for that 
engineering if you can afford it. But just because he is using a 
logic approach doesn't make the electro mechanical approach an 
inferior product. As simple as my product is and the way it's wired, 
I have no more low voltage problems and drop outs. We have some 
differences + and -. but it works and it's guaranteed. 
As you know that the water in the radiator goes from one side to the 
other before going out. In a lot of colder climates one can get by 
with less air flow. That's why people put cardboard in front of the 
radiator to slow down air flow to heat the car up or just use one 
fan. In Texas, we need all the air flow we can get in hot climate, 
but in 40 and 50 degree weather, one fans works great to let the 
water heat up faster. The coolant switch turns the fan on and only 
one fan to draw current instead of two when two is not needed. I 
drive mine like this in colder weather. Yes: it may go against the 
grain of a lot of people, but it works.
I don't mind constructive criticism, and sometimes I screw up just 
like others that try to help. But it seems that a lot of De Lorean 
owners have only seen one way to approach problems with the cars and 
have been kept in the dark. I think I have opened a lot of eyes to 
just as good but less expensive ways.
Ask me about the current relief I have given the main relay that also 
controls the Lambda unit. I have that low voltage problem solved.
The fuel pumb burning up the, I think #7 fuse, I have that fixed 
also. All with out logic and very inexpensive.
If I'm out of line I know the group will put me back on track.
I like my De Lorean's and will continue to address problems the only 
way I know how. Simple. Thanks for your opinion's, I think yours and 
others are always welcome. I think folks learn from these exchanges 
and look forward to them. I also know when to check it to the logic 
engineers.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com 


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