The pad on the clutch disk will pretty much absorb some amount of oil (or fluid) if left in contact with it. This said, if you do have a leaky slave and it did manage to leak into the bell housing and get onto the pad your pretty much SOL. Also another thing to note is that the rear main seal on the engine (right behind the clutch) tends to leak and get all over the clutch. If you pull the tranny to replace the clucth do the following: 1. Purchase a new clucth kit (I use Centerforces clutch, P/N CF12184). Don't attempt to try and clean your old one. 2. Get the flywheel resurfaced! don't have it "cut" like a traditional brake rotor instead have it "ground finished" your clutch will last longer. I know that some PEP Boys shops have the machine to do this, check with them if you have one in your area. I recomend resurfacing the flywheel even if it looks good to get rid of the glaze (shiney surface) so that the clutch will be alot more responsive and grip better. 3. Replace the rear main seal on the engine since you have it all apart. The seal is not expensive and is not all that hard to replace. 4. If the slave cylinder is leaking...Replace it don't even attempt to have or try to rebuild it. 5. Replace the Throw out bearing and Pilot bearing even if they seem good. If they go bad then you are going to have to do the entire thing all over (taking the tranny of the car that is). If you call Rob at PJ Grady or even DMC Joe they can instruct you on what grease to use on the Throw Out bearing how to apply it...VERY IMPORTANT especially if you have a early model D that has the metal sleaved Throw out bearing, they tend to rust and start to stick. I don't know what VIN thay started to install the Throw out bearing with the plastic sleave. From what I understand they are not interchangable. You also might want to think about replacing the plastic (if you still have it) clutch line with the Stainless Steel one that the Delorean vendors carry. The plastic line begins to expand as it heats up. This will cause the clutch not to fully dissengage and after a long period of time (years?) can lead to burning your clutch. That is not likely what caused your clutch to go now but I suggest this since you'll have the entire clutch assembly with the slave cylinder out. I know Rob at PJ Grady (and I am sure that the other D vendors have it too) a clutch rebuild kit that contains everything you need and with the choice of either using the OEM clutch or Centerforce one. Steve Rubano --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote: > Back in September when my clutch begain slipping I had it replaced > (the old one was completely fried!). For the past 2½ month's > everything has been going fine untill last night. >snip< >snip< the slave > cylinder appears to have a small leak. >snip< 2. Is there any type of degreaser or detergent > that I could safely spray up to clean the clutch? The other thing is > that for a while now the salve cylinder has been rather squeeky. I > daubed a little grease onto the piston while it was fully extended by > having someone else hold the clutch pedal in. While this has not > cured my problem either, the slave cylinder operates ALOT quieter now. > Anyone have any ideas? > > -Robert > vin 6585 (the DeLorean from hell!)